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Divider_GoldMoth

The Walrus Waistcoat

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Nancy Stange

LINKS:

(click images to to enlarge)

Other Credits

Amanda Batson-Model

Outline the story …

My piece was inspired by The Walrus from the poem The Walrus and The Carpenter featured in Lewis Carroll’s Through the Looking Glass. My interpretation of the character is a silver-tongued and gluttonous con-man. I see The Walrus as an elitist who will seduce, betray, and consume others to achieve his desires and only indulges himself in remorse when his appetites are satisfied. My original design was a dark blue waistcoat made of wool suiting with an embroidered blue/grey silk back, large pearl buttons, an oyster shell pocket watch, and a small oyster knife tie pin or brooch . The front design would have embroidering of seaweed running along the front opening featuring small shoes, ships, sealing wax, cabbages, and kings (crowns) as well as pearl beading. I hoped to find embroidered silk and was willing to adjust my color palette based on what silk was available. I was not sure how to get a walrus model so when my closest friend asked if she could be my walrus, I chose her immediately. I chose her because I knew she would be a very positive force and would love the result no matter what happened.
In the final piece, I sacrificed many of my original ideas because I was so worried about the “costume vs. garment” warning. In the future I will be brave and reach out to the FR staff when I’m unsure about a rule that so greatly affects my piece.

Outline the construction…

In light of the pandemic, I relied too heavily on the stock at JoAnn Fabrics. The selection available made me change my color palette entirely. The final piece is made of a very soft Brown/Black wool and a gold polyester satin. The shank buttons are faux pearls in a bronze setting. I hand-sewed my two mockups, the embroidery (3 strand floss), as well as the buttonholes (very shiny 6 strand floss). I machine stitched the rest because of time constraints.
The most impactful challenge I faced was simply that I chose a “plus size” model and could not find a proper pattern that came near her measurements. I refused to replace my model for such a foolish reason, so I decided to draft my own pattern which I’ve never done. I found a pattern for a bodice block (and learned what a “bodice block” is) and decided it would be easy to adapt it into a waistcoat (spoiler alert, it is by no means “easy”). My other challenges included having no previous experience with mockups, tailoring, beading or lining, and a “3-day” family emergency trip which lasted 8 days. I used youtube tutorials and blogs for most of my questions and leaned on the discord when I needed them.
I set out to complete an “Apprentice Level'' piece for my first competition. I believe my setbacks and solutions produced an Intermediate Level piece, done with Apprentice Level skill.

COMMENTS

Divider_GoldMoth

8 Comments

  1. Avatar Samanthalovestosew on March 12, 2021 at 8:30 pm

    It sounds like you took on a real challenge! I love the concept and the finished waistcoat is wonderful. Your embroidery and hand sewn buttonholes look amazing.

  2. Avatar Susan Scott on March 12, 2021 at 11:09 pm

    Well done I am just attempting hand sewn buttonholes myself a real challenge.
    I love the colours and embroidery. Stunning.

  3. Avatar Claire on March 14, 2021 at 9:33 am

    Wow what a challenge! Bravo for choosing a plus size model, this is what we need, to see a diversity of models everywhere. The detailing on the front is really pretty. Love the contrasting colour on the back I think it reflects the handsome yet two faced nature of your conman! Well done.

  4. Avatar Manon L'Hostis on March 14, 2021 at 10:21 pm

    You faced many challenges during this process, and may I say you nailed them! The final piece looks great and that embroidery is just wonderful❤

  5. Avatar Pooja S on March 15, 2021 at 12:05 am

    The waistcoat is wonderful, especially love your choice of buttons!

  6. Avatar Mandi on March 20, 2021 at 1:08 pm

    I knew exactly which character you were portraying. You nailed it! The pearl details kick off the imagination and I can actually picture the poem. I am sure there are even more details so I am going to go back for a second look.

  7. Avatar Annie Bartholomew on March 28, 2021 at 5:12 am

    Way to overcome the challenges and make a fantastic piece! Love the fabrics and details you ended up with. Those buttons are perfect, and the gold satin backing is exactly what the walrus would wear!

  8. Andrea Painter Andrea Painter on March 30, 2021 at 6:09 am

    I’m not familiar with the writing, but the final outfit is very evocative of the character that you’ve described!! I like that you stuck with your friend — I bet her positive force was very useful for overcoming the obstacles (learning experiences!!) that you encountered! I love the pearls and the gradient on the embroidery, as well – great job! Thank you for sharing this with us:)

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