FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY

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The Dark Fairy

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Josefine Lehan

LINKS:

(click images to to enlarge)

Outline the story …

The mirror will open only for he who cannot see himself.

A world behind the mirror. A world where all fairytales are true. A world of dwarves, fairies, and shapeshifter. A world of dark magic where sleeping beauty still sleeps because her prince never came.

Cornelia Funke's book series ‚Reckless‘ was the first thing that came to my mind when I read this year’s competition theme. The mirrorworld stands on the steps of the industrial revolution and nobody knows where the old magic fits in. I took inspiration from a character called the Dark Fairy. She was born from the water of a lake but got cast out from the island where her sisters, also fairies, live. Fairies have six fingers on each hand and out of their hair fly moths when they loosen it. The Dark Fairy’s moths are black. Now in the realms of the mortals she falls in love with the king of the Goyl, stone creatures who have left their underground cities to conquer the human kingdoms. The author describes her wearing dresses that was copied from a painting of a mortal woman. It is made from a green silk and contains so much fabric that the dress could have made ten.

With this information about the time period and the look of the dress I decided to make an 1860s ballgown just like one the Fairy could possibly wear.

Outline the construction…

The 1860s are a new time period for me. I had to make all the foundational garments as well as the outer dress itself.

The corset is made of a white coutil with a light green silk taffeta on top. It is the first time I worked with bust gussets. Finally I decorated the top with some lace and the bones with flossing.

To achieve the typical 1860s silhouette, a cage crinoline is obligatory. I tried two methods to keep the fullness of the crinoline in the back: Horizontal ties on the top hoops and a small cushion filled with saw dust right below the waistband in center back. This crinoline is made of spring steel in white cotton casing.

Next there is the petticoat. Because the skirt doesn’t have to be fitted apart from the waist and hem length, this petticoat served as the mock up for the final dress skirt. It has nine panels and just two ties in the back as a closure.

For fabric of the skirt and bodice, I couldn’t find a darker green silk, so I chose the same taffeta as for the corset and added a layer of black silk gauze. I lined both pieces with a cotton sateen and took the extra time to finish all the seams. The bodice is lightly boned and has a hook and eye closure. I rushed the gauze overlay on every skirt panel with a little bow. Embroidered moths bring inspiration and dress together.

COMMENTS

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6 Comments

  1. Avatar Cassandra Sif Jensen Al-Towaiji on April 19, 2024 at 5:01 pm

    I am a big fan of this book and I think you perfectly captured the dark beauty of the dark fairy with the subtle dark green and moths scattered.

    • Avatar Josefine Lehan on April 21, 2024 at 8:30 am

      Thank you very much!

  2. Kitty Mortensen Kitty Mortensen on April 19, 2024 at 9:56 pm

    Absolutely stunning, I’ve never read the book but your entry is making me want to 🙂 loving the tiny moths.

    • Avatar Josefine Lehan on April 21, 2024 at 8:31 am

      Thank you! And it is a really great book, I definetly can recommend it.

  3. Avatar Bethany on April 22, 2024 at 8:37 pm

    I adore this dress. I want one just like it!

  4. Avatar Jenny B on April 24, 2024 at 6:17 pm

    Wonderful silhouette and construction, you’ve done an incredible job – the final gown is stunning!

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