Stripes in the forest





Outline the story …

My original plan was to make a plaid jacket like the one in the mood board I linked as inspiration image, but when I decided to make this project my competition entry, I decided to adequate the fabrics to the theme, instead of the shape. I had this beautiful black and white striped cotton in my stash, which reminded me of tree trunks against the light. However, only the striped fabric would not be a clear reference to the image I had in my mind… That was when I found an amazing floral lace! The lace over the stripes recreates perfectly a silhouette of a forest against the white light of a cloudy day. And were trees against a white sky the background I wanted to find for my photos.
As for the shape of the jacket, I wanted to make something challenging! I made waistcoats and coats before, but never a fully lined jacket. The peaked lapel using two different fabrics was also a fun challenge. I took inspiration from the 1890’s fitted jackets with pleats in the back.

Outline the construction…

I drafted the pattern myself, altering a waistcoat pattern I drafted some years ago from the Keystone Jacket and Dress Cutter, from 1895. The drafting of the sleeves was through trial and error - alterations after alterations over many mockups and past projects. I still find things to be improved in the sleeves, but for now, I am satisfied with the result. The collar and lapels were drafted for this project, since this is the first time I attempt to make a peaked lapel.
The fabric choice was made according to the theme ‘nature’, but also thinking about the structure. All 14 pattern pieces (9 for the bodice, 1 for the collar and 4 for the sleeves) were flat lined with cotton coutil. The velvet was repurposed from a piece (I imagine it was part of a skirt) I found in the fabric scrap pile in the sewing room I inherited from my grandmother who passed last year (it comforts me to have a piece of something she made in a garment I use). She was a very talented seamstress, and I was honored to be her apprentice.
The structural seams were machine stitched, but all visible stitches (including attaching the facings, lining, cuffs and making the buttonholes) were hand sewn.
I was satisfied with the fit and this garment turned out to be comfortable, elegant and warm.




  1. Avatar Abigail Lamb on May 8, 2023 at 10:27 pm

    I love this and how you have communicated the project so well through the photographs 🙂

  2. Constance MacKenzie Constance MacKenzie on May 10, 2023 at 8:29 am

    Gorgeous use of monochrome, always a favourite of mine, and I also love that you have made an effort to make the inside as neat, thought out and beautiful as the outside.

  3. Avatar Steffi Wee on May 10, 2023 at 12:47 pm

    I love the contrast of the stripes and the embroidery – they work so well together!!

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.