FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY

Divider_GoldMoth

3rd Place

Serpent Witch

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Susanna Antonsson

LINKS:

(click images to to enlarge)

Other Credits

Photographer: Josefine Antonsson

Outline the story …

I have always been fascinated by the witch in “The Silver Chair”, one of the books of Narnia, by C. S. Lewis. Those who meet her first perceive her as a lovely, beautiful creature, described as tall, slender and wearing a flowy green gown. Yet, she proves to be a ruthless ruler and a witch, who sometimes transforms into a serpent (hence this title). She has killed the Queen of Narnia and now she has the prince under a spell.

Since I was a child, I wanted to make a gown for her, but always hesitated because of lack of skill, material and purpose. When this year’s competition theme was announced, I decided to finally make this gown! I would use the beautiful silk that my mother brought from the Silk Road and create a gown inspired by the Pre-Raphaelite take on Medieval fashion. I wanted to make it as flowy as possible – preferably like liquid – with a swishy trained skirt, long, flowy arms and contrasting tight cotehardie arms. I also wanted a belt, alluding to her serpent form. As the witch is slender, while the bubbly design added many inches to the waist, I needed a corset with waist reduction (which I had never before succeeded with). The arms would be detachable, so that I could also wear it as a modern dress. I wanted to try new techniques and with the support of the Stitchling Community, I thought that I could actually pull this off.

Outline the construction…

My old selfdrafted corset pattern (by Cathy Hay’s instructions) required many adjustments, but the corset fitted after 4-5 mockups. I tried to incorporate what I’d learnt from live calls, articles and the Stitchlings’ community – I basted, roll pinned, used a waist band, bust padding, fray check and internal boning cases, etc. The inside looks horrid and the silk has resulted in new issues, but the corset gives me the silhouette that I aimed for.

For the gown, I needed a smooth foundation. I used lightweight cotton for the bodice, with a zipper in the side. The polyester petticoat has three rows of tulle, more ruffled in the back. The narrow 9.5 meters of silk were put together according to a medieval method: using four panels plus triangular gores in the skirt. I manipulated the fabric on the dressform and put hundreds of pins where I wanted the wrinkles, then replaced each pin with tiny stitches. I tried hiding seams and irregularities of the fabric. The remaining fabric was used for the flowy arms. The contrasting cotehardie arms are also of medieval cut. The hems and buttonholes are hand stitched. The hem of the skirt is lined with horsehair (which first looked hideous, as I put it upside down, but after good advice and cheering, I unpicked it and put it back by hand). The gown shimmers in green, red and blue, depending on the light. The serpent belt consists of four strands of braided steel wire. I love this gown!

COMMENTS

Divider_GoldMoth

31 Comments

  1. Avatar Wendy on March 11, 2021 at 11:37 pm

    The freehand pleating on the bodice is fascinating, and really effective with the shot silk. Bravo!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 13, 2021 at 9:47 pm

      Thank you!

  2. Avatar Phanuel Jagna Levinsen on March 12, 2021 at 12:06 am

    Oh the draping of this bodice together with the two-toned fabric…. this is wonderful! beautiful work!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 13, 2021 at 9:48 pm

      Thank you so much!

      • Avatar Phanuel Jagna Levinsen on March 20, 2021 at 11:22 pm

        You’re very welcome! Also want to say that the subtle contrast of the main dress to the sleeve is amazing as well and it’s just really well put together!

  3. Avatar Ellen Rose on March 12, 2021 at 5:46 am

    Wonderful talent and inspiration coupled with great effort and effect

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 13, 2021 at 9:48 pm

      Thank you so much, Ellen!

  4. Avatar Kathleen Davies on March 12, 2021 at 8:43 am

    A dress absolutely fit for a serpent-queen! The fabric manipulation looks so fluid and effortless, and the fit is excellent! Magnificent fabric choice too.

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 13, 2021 at 9:51 pm

      Thank you so much for these wonderful words! I’m so excited someone else than me appreciate my work. 🤗

      • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 13, 2021 at 9:52 pm

        Thank you so much. I’m glad you liked it!

  5. Avatar Maria Jones on March 12, 2021 at 10:32 pm

    The texture is perfect with that two tone fabric! I love the Pre-Raphaelite design and the belt finishes it off so nicely

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 14, 2021 at 6:17 am

      Thank you so much!

  6. Avatar Camille on March 14, 2021 at 1:01 pm

    the work on that bodice is magnificent and that two-colors-fabric works really well with the whole costume !

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 14, 2021 at 9:00 pm

      Thank you so much! It means so much to hear.

  7. Avatar Briana on March 15, 2021 at 7:13 pm

    Amazing! What beautiful colors! You look just like a shapeshifting witch! I love it!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 16, 2021 at 8:06 pm

      Thank you so much!

  8. Avatar Marion Brégier on March 20, 2021 at 8:26 pm

    The draping on the bodice is truly mesmerizing, you created a truly fantastical outfit !

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 22, 2021 at 4:24 am

      Thank you so much, Marion! I am so glad that you appreciate it.

  9. Avatar Suzanne Egan on March 23, 2021 at 4:56 am

    The medieval construction elements show! But WOW what an inspired fabric choice, that colour change is so what you want for a serpent Queen! This is an exceptionally draping job and I so glad to hear you love it! Well done for tackling such a design!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 23, 2021 at 1:42 pm

      Thank you so much!

      I am so incredibly happy for all wonderful comments. It means so much. So thankful for being part of such a supportive community.

  10. Avatar Benigna on March 26, 2021 at 2:52 pm

    The dress is really beautiful! The fabric is wonderful. And the corset is also really beautiful.

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 27, 2021 at 2:08 pm

      Thank you so much!

  11. Avatar Veronica Maria on March 26, 2021 at 4:50 pm

    Wonderful dress and corset! I am in love with the fabric, the colours and the construction of the dress, especially the sleeves, and I loved that you even made the snake wire belt- a wonderful final touch.

  12. Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 27, 2021 at 2:09 pm

    Thank you so much!

  13. Avatar Stephanie Murison on March 28, 2021 at 6:50 pm

    The beautiful colour-shifting fabric was the perfect choice for this outfit, and I absolutely love the shape you achieved with the corset and amazing textures you created on the bodice! SO beautiful, well done!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 29, 2021 at 1:12 pm

      Thank you so much! I am so glad to hear it!

  14. Avatar Emily on March 29, 2021 at 3:04 am

    This is so cool!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 29, 2021 at 1:13 pm

      Thank you so much!

  15. Avatar Nina Martin on March 30, 2021 at 7:40 pm

    Let me tell you what, I now have a new headcanon for the witch. Every time I read the book I shall now picture her in this gown!!

    • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 30, 2021 at 8:18 pm

      Wow, this is one of the finest compliments I could ever have wished for. Thank you so much!

      • Avatar Susanna Antonsson on April 2, 2021 at 7:41 pm

        Once again thank you for every wonderful comment. I am so honoured that some of you even voted for my entry, as there are so many other fantastic costumes in this category. I am overwhelmed! ❤

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