Phoenix Bade


(click images to to enlarge)

Other Credits

Model- Angela Trench, Photographers- Jenny Lovell and Deanna King, makeup- Lynn Hunt, costume teacher- Amanda Silk, dying assistance- Auntie B

Outline the story …

Character: Ondine, from the book Ondine by Heather Graham Pozzessere (pen name Shannon Drake)

Ondine is a romance/mystery book set in 17th century England, dealing with themes of nobility and privilege, love and hate. After the suspicious death of his first wife, Lord Warwick Chatham saves Ondine from the hangman’s noose with his offer of marriage. Ondine was to be hanged for poaching after her father’s murder had forced her to run away, leaving a life of privilege behind. Ondine plans to use her new position to clear her father’s name however she and Warwick bicker constantly and she tries to run away from him. After returning to Warwick, they travel to King Charles II’s court, where Ondine is attacked by a hooded figure. Their relationship continues to be challenging as Lady Anne tries to seduce Warwick and he becomes jealous of the attention Ondine receives from the King. They fight and he sends Ondine away. When Ondine returns to her home she tries to find evidence that her uncle killed her father and destroy the forged evidence that incriminates her. She is forced to agree to marry Raoul, her cousin. After she realises she is pregnant, Warwick appears and the danger to them both increases. A web of murder, treachery and violence engulfs them but in the end they survive and realise that they really do love one another.

Outline the construction…

The costume was 6 pieces: bumroll, petticoat, skirt, bodice, justaucorps and hat. I also designed a chemise however I ran out of time and didn’t end up making it. The hat brim was slipper felt steamed into shape with darts cut to curl it up further. The crown of the hat was made by stretching buckram over a hat block. The brim and crown were stitched together, covered and trimmed.

The bodice was made of a layer of fused jacquard and a layer of cotton drill sandwiched together and stitched to create boning channels. For the detail on the front of the bodice I wet felted wool into noodles which I then dyed and hand stitched using invisible thread. I carved my own wooden busk from a piece of scrap wood I found and stitched on an internal pocket to hold it.

Making the justaucorps was a challenge as it was the first time I had made a coat and was only the second time I had lined anything. I also had issues fitting the model as she had quite broad shoulders and a rounded back. Originally my pattern design was intended to be simple with a single panel for the back and one for each front. I couldn’t get the right fit however, so I had to separate the bodice pieces from the skirt pieces, add princess back seams plus a curved CB seam to allow room for her shoulders.




  1. Kitty Mortensen Kitty Mortensen on March 11, 2021 at 8:49 pm

    The brading is such a cool touch. gorgeous

  2. Avatar Reet on March 12, 2021 at 2:03 am

    Nice Outfit.

  3. Avatar Izzy on March 12, 2021 at 7:08 am

    Beautiful amount of detail has gone into this outfit.

  4. Avatar Floriane Descloquemant on March 12, 2021 at 11:32 am

    The bodice is amazing !! Great work !!

  5. Avatar Annie on March 13, 2021 at 2:16 am

    Absolutely stunning the work and details in these pieces are incredible

  6. Avatar Elise on March 13, 2021 at 4:59 pm

    Oh my gosh, the amount of work that went into this project is blowing my mind! dying, braiding, and handstitching wetted wool felt?? Making everything — including the hat shape — from scratch? Astounding!! I love the design, too, it’s so fresh and creative!

    • Avatar Phoenix Bade on March 16, 2021 at 2:03 am

      Thank you! Yes it was a lot of work, over 200 hours I estimated

  7. Avatar Mandy Pursley on March 14, 2021 at 2:54 pm

    It turned out so great! I’m in awe of all the work you put into it, but it was definitely worth it in the end! Very well done!

  8. Avatar Marion Brégier on March 16, 2021 at 8:42 pm

    Beautiful work ! The front details on the bodice are so eye catching !

  9. Avatar Carly Van Groeningen on March 19, 2021 at 11:04 am

    Beautifully done, I especially love the wool embellishment on the corset!

  10. Avatar Maeri Certo on March 23, 2021 at 12:54 pm

    Well done! This is such an interesting outfit to look at. What does that beautifully dyed wool detail on the bodice signify?

  11. Avatar Stephanie Murison on March 25, 2021 at 4:11 am

    I absolutely adore the coat design, and that gorgeous fabric with the gold and purple flowers is just stunning!

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