FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY

Divider_GoldMoth

Noisette

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Melanie Coburn

(click images to to enlarge)

Other Credits

Thanks to Josianne Amolik Photography

Outline the story …

On a Halloween night, I stumbled upon the Foundations Revealed competition. As I pondered the theme, my mind raced with ideas, but I couldn't quite latch onto one until a knock at the door interrupted me. After the trick-or-treaters left, I gazed at the snow outside and thought of replacing my skull decorations with my nutcracker collection. That's when it hit me!

I've always loved "The Nutcracker," imagining myself as a female Nutcracker Soldier, valiantly battling mice. I decided to create my own character, Noisette, a Nutcracker from the Pine Forest near the Land of Sweets. My inspiration is Alexandre Dumas' adaptation of E.T.A. Hoffman's "The Nutcracker and the Mouse King"

For her outfit, I drew inspiration from my collection of nutcracker soldiers. I incorporated double-breasted buttons on the front of her corset and military-style braiding on her cape, reminiscent of their uniforms. I learned to floss the corset through YouTube tutorials and images of historical garments. The soutache design on the back of the cape was inspired by an 1850's cape I found on metmuseum.org.
Creating Noisette, I combined my love for "The Nutcracker" with my passion for sewing, bringing to life a character that embodies my childhood dreams and the spirit of the festive season.

Outline the construction…

As a practical sewer with basic skills learned in high school, I never thought I'd make a bespoke corset until I received a sewing machine for Christmas 2022. This competition provided the perfect opportunity to challenge myself with more complex garments.

Living in a small, rural Canadian city limits my access to fabrics and supplies. I chose a green satin velvet with minimal stretch for both the outer layer and lining of the corset. Using the Laughing Moon Mercantile Doré pattern, I tried pad stitching the satin to coutil to create a two-layer corset. I purchased a corsetry kit from a Canadian supplier, which included German Plastic bones, lacing, and a grommet kit. After three mock-ups, I constructed the corset, guided by the pattern instructions and Linda Sparks' "The Basics of Corset Building."
For the cape, I used the Laughing Moon Mercantile #170 Wrist Length Cape pattern. Its construction was straightforward, but sourcing soutache locally was impossible, leading to delays. I completed the cape before the soutache arrived due to time constraints and later added it with hand embroidery, being careful not to catch the lining.

Limited lace availability posed another challenge, but I was determined to incorporate it. Matching the lace's color, I learned to make bias binding for the cape. Despite these obstacles, I successfully completed both the corset and the cape, pushing my sewing skills to new heights.

COMMENTS

Divider_GoldMoth

7 Comments

  1. Avatar Cassandra Sif Jensen Al-Towaiji on April 19, 2024 at 4:34 pm

    Woah, that soutache trim on the cape is crazy! I love the colours and textures of it, it is a perfect match to your hair as well.

  2. Kitty Mortensen Kitty Mortensen on April 19, 2024 at 6:28 pm

    This is so clean and beautiful, I’m sold on the nutcracker fantasy and I’m in love with the green/gold and royal army esthetic. Gorgeous work it looks beautiful.

  3. Avatar Regina Finan on April 20, 2024 at 6:09 pm

    Oh that flossing & soutache is beautiful! Love the colour. And I particularly like how the stand up collar on the cape ties in so well with the top of the corset.

  4. Avatar Bethany on April 21, 2024 at 7:59 pm

    I’m a huge fan of cloaks, and yours is gorgeous. So clean and crisp. I’d happily wear that every day.

  5. Avatar Jenny B on April 23, 2024 at 7:09 pm

    This is absolutely spectacular – if you told us it came off stage at the Royal Ballet I wouldn’t be surprised. Gorgeous design, and an excellent fit.

  6. Avatar Rachel Sullivan on April 23, 2024 at 8:59 pm

    This is spectacular and I particularly love the detail on the cloak – what a great fit too!

  7. Avatar Ginny Allen on May 3, 2024 at 6:03 pm

    I was excited to vote for you, sad you didn’t make it as a finalist. The corset fits you very well and loos gorgeous. I love that you entered both pieces, they are a lovely set.

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