Karkulka

For the cape, I have used V9288 pattern by Vogue and a self-drafted pattern for a beret. I have used a doubleface wool/poly blend (80/20%), iron on interfacing and decorative ribbon with twill tape for hem and embellishment. As the pattern suggests, the cape is unlined - another reason why I wanted to use doubleface fabric. I have made slight changes in the construction e.g. an inside pocket instead of patch pockets, I have sewn ribbon and twill tape together to cover the hem to reduce bulk, I have also modified belt construction for the same reasons. I’ve worked with the iron on interfacing for the first time. Also, it is the first garment I have sewn on an antique treadle machine (no electric machine involved). The biggest challenges were the thickness of the fabric and its unruliness. Tartan pattern helped a lot while cutting so I could follow the grainline. Seam allowances are closed together and overcasted to avoid streaks of red on the inside. The pocket is attached to a facing of a front piece so it wouldn’t be visible from the outside. It’s made from quilting cotton sewn into a tube and manipulated with darts to fit the shape. Buttonholes are handsewn and buttons have a little thread shank made with a buttonhole stitch. Crocheted loop keeps the belt from getting lost. Beret construction was fairly simple. I have used contrasting tartan side for a band and finished the raw edge with the same twill tape.