FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY

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Jude Duarte

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Clare McKelway

LINKS:

(click images to to enlarge)

Outline the story …

I fell in love with The Folk of the Air series by Holly Black this summer, and as soon as I read the coronation scene at the end of "The Cruel Prince" I knew I had to make Jude's dress. I was really inspired by the description of the dress in the book, but in the actual designing of the dress before I started sewing, I was heavily inspired by 'fairy fashion;' floaty skirts with structured corset tops. Dresses that have several unevenly hemmed layers to their skirts, and gauzy, off-the-shoulder sleeves. I spent a lot of time on pinterest, but also a fair amount of time looking at ballet corsets when trying to come up with a top design in my head. The skirt has been living in my head for several months, and started as layered squares, but I ended up going with a much more 'leafy' pattern because it felt more 'fae' and seemed to better suit the human girl raised in Faerie. I chose not to add a modesty panel in the corset top because the books also have a lot of discussion of the lack of modesty in faerie and since Jude is technically a member of the Faerie court, it made sense to exclude the modesty panel. I chose to make the dress in three pieces mostly to minimize bulk around the waist, but also so that I might use them in other looks/projects.

Outline the construction…

I started by taking a trip to the NYC garment district and searching for the color pallet I wanted, I have never created a gradient like this before, so choosing the right colors in all similar weights was my first challenge. Additionally, I've spliced patterns together before, but never to this extent, I ended up tracing part of a McCalls fairy costume pattern onto paper so that I could attach it to a different skirt pattern to get the jagged, leafy hem I wanted on a much longer skirt. For the corset, I made a mock up of a pattern from Etsy (dresslikeprincess) and the Redthreaded 1890s corset to see which I liked best, and ended up with the etsy pattern, which didn't come with instructions of any kind, so I then had to use what I know about making corsets, several Foundations Revealed articles, and Mandy Barrington's "Stays & Corsets" to figure out the best way to put it together. I cut two sets of pieces out of an old sheet, and used that as a second mockup and the lining of the actual piece, but I only sewed boning channels into the lining, because I wanted the outward fabric with as little visible stitching as possible so as not to disrupt the paint I used. I hand painted every tree and hand stitched each bead into place. I also learned how my antique singer's hemming foot worked, which was a huge time saver, and also interesting to know.

COMMENTS

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8 Comments

  1. Avatar Anne on March 12, 2021 at 9:53 pm

    Absolutely fabulous corset. The fabrics are stunning. And the gloves and the hair ……. *chef’s kiss*. Drop down gorgeous!!

  2. Avatar Leora Wambach on March 14, 2021 at 12:41 am

    I really especially love the detail work of the branches/trees, and the layered color effect. Such a lovely outfit!

    • Avatar Clare McKelway on March 15, 2021 at 5:41 pm

      Thank you so much 🙂

  3. Avatar Manon L'Hostis on March 14, 2021 at 1:56 pm

    So many details! The dress looks wonderful, you did a great job❤

  4. Avatar Laura Wemyss on March 14, 2021 at 7:33 pm

    The interplay of colours is lovely!

  5. Avatar Kristina on March 17, 2021 at 2:04 pm

    You really do look like fae. Great job!

  6. Avatar Amanda on March 20, 2021 at 2:18 am

    I love this book series, and this is such a fantastic Jude costume! Bravo!

  7. Avatar AnnaCatherine Sendgikoski on March 27, 2021 at 3:53 am

    This is really beautiful! I love the color and your decorations are very imaginative! Thank you!

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