FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Invisible Armour
(click images to to enlarge)
Other Credits
Photographer and pro-video: Anne-Marie Michel: https://instagram.com/annemariemichel; Model and MUA: Glimour Queen: https://instagram.com/glimourqueen; Hair: Dom the Queenof Wigs- https://instagram.com/domthewigqueen
Outline the story …
I love combining contrasting ideas and my inspiration came from the sea- formless, translucent creatures like jellyfish and squid that simultaneously have visible ‘bone’ structures…
Like they both exist and don’t exist at the same time- a dichotomy of softness and rigidity.
I wanted to create something that appears delicate and transparent whilst also being strong and structured- the idea of something ‘there but not there’ and to be able to see exactly what’s going on inside the garment.
It had to be a corset, because I love them, so I decided to challenge myself by creating a corset dress with an accompanying neck/posture corset and to complete the design by creating an ethereal skirt base with shapes inspired by jellyfish.
Usually, structured garments have a lot going on ‘backstage’ that the viewer never gets to see and I wanted to celebrate the complicated inner workings by having totally transparent fabric and channels.
Spiral boning in itself is a beautiful thing, that is usually hidden away and that has always seemed such a shame to me.
When I discovered after fitting 1 that my model has scoliosis- a twisting of the spine- this project really felt like a beautiful celebration of both skeleton and formlessness, and the diversity of the human body.
Outline the construction…
I kept the design relatively simple to focus on precision- in the sewing, fit and pattern cutting.
I wanted materials that were transparent- that also allowed tight-lacing. I eventually found strong nylon corsetry mesh.
The hem is organza with steel hoop for structure.
The corsets contain:
74 eyelets
9metres spiral steel boning
26metres lacing
All patterns were self-drafted.
A long-distance project- that started quite late- I’d originally planned for 2 fittings but added an emergency 3rd after realising that the model needed entirely asymmetrical garments.
This was my first time making a corset dress, neck corset and making for someone with a twisted torso- I felt excited for the fit challenge and wanted to celebrate her asymmetry.
I also felt overwhelm- at the technicality of making 24 asymmetrical pieces appear parallel - I struggle with ADHD and ‘lefts and rights’ so it was a challenge!
For centre front/back lines I followed the curve of the body, adjusting the panels out from each; finishing the neck corset last so I could fit it and space evenly from the dress.
The backs were laced together, so the neck corset needed sloping down towards the left.
This mesh can’t be pressed- it has to be stitched instead.
The organza skirt & hoop support organza ruffles, which are finished with zigzag stitch and fishing wire.
Channels are grosgrain with felled seams to allow bone visiblity.
They’re narrow to keep the aesthetic, with very little tolerance.
I learnt V-shaped binding, thanks to the FR archives!
This is wonderful! A beautiful concept, beautifully executed.
Thanks so much! I appreciate you 🙂 xoxo
This is an amazing concept, and phenomenal final garment. You’ve got my vote. <3
Aww yay! That makes me happy. Thanks for commenting and for your support!! xxx
Amazing!
Thank you! xoxoxo
This is such an incredible and creative response to the theme!