FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Finalist
Hérodiade
(click images to to enlarge)
Other Credits
Photographed by Christa Newman
Outline the story …
Entry inspired by Hérodiade by Stéphane Mallarmé. The Yellow Book of the 1890s was a periodical that published poetry and stories that was lavishly illustrated by Aubrey Beardsley. The Aesthetic movement was captured both in the writing and design of the publication. In researching I found Aesthetes and Decadents of the 1890s it is an anthology of poetry including many from The Yellow Book. Hérodiade by Stéphane Mallarmé was my character inspiration. The fictionalized version of Herodias the wife of Herod the Great. She was characterized as the goddess of witchcraft in the Medieval era. The ancient and medieval influence on the Aesthetic movement inspired my design. I researched the smocked dresses produced by Liberty & Co. I also researched the reform dresses worn by the Pre-Raphaelites and members of the Arts and Crafts movement during the 1860s and 1870s. The original clothing was of a slightly different silhouette than what was eventually commercially sold. I wanted both of these styles to influence my finished look instead of making a Liberty & Co. replica. I free form drew organic embroidery designs to give that Aubrey Beardsley feel that is both modern and Medieval feeling. I wanted to capture the feeling of reading poetry and becoming the character. From Hérodiade “A voice from the distant past, an evocation, Is it not mine prepared for incantation? In the yellow folds of thought, still unexhumed, Lingering, and like an antique cloth perfumed”
Outline the construction…
The pattern is created using simple rectangles. I made a smocking sample to deduce how the fabric was needed. The fabric needed 4.25 times the finished smocked section to reduce correctly. I needed more length and ended up adding a hem band to compensate. This ended up with one of my favorite design details. To make the armscye and sleeve cap shape I used a raglan sleeve dress pattern I previously drafted. I traced these onto my pre cut linen rectangles. The dress is decorated with a heavy silk twist. The embroidery for the collar, cuffs, and hem was all done using a satin and stem stitch on a frame. I used the Pricilla Smocking guide from 1916 to teach myself how to smock. It took trial and error and sampling to get to the desired look. All the sections of the dress were pleated using a pleater machine before being stitched together. I kept all the pleating threads extra long so I could sew first. After the seams were completed the threads were pulled to create tight pleats. The smocking stitches were sewn strategically to control the fullness. Once all the smocking was done, I could finally remove the pleating threads. A waist tape keeps the smocking tight around the waist fitted over a corset. The back is finished with a placket that closes with snaps and decorative embroidered buttons. The embroidered elements were added last.
The aesthetics of this project hit me immediately. Then I started reading your text: It’s inspired by my favourite era, and you mention some of my favourite writers and artists. I can only interpret the craftsmanship of the details as a tribute to the Arts & Crafts Movement. Stunning!
Thank you! I love the Arts & Crafts movement. To slow down and create something that takes a lot of time is very relaxing to me.
Wow, the smocking looks awesome.
This is amazing almost beyond words, I can really see the love and care you poured into it
The smocking is incredible. I love your project, so simple from afar but yet so full of detail.
“The devil is in the details” as someone said. At first sight this looks very clean and “simple”, yet there are so many details, like the embroidered buttons, with make this gown a real piece of art. I am speechless, I can just say I love this gown. Also the way you pose, the environment, the props are simply perfect.
Thank you! My amazing photographer really got what I was going for and the mood to set.
A Liberty gown! My very favourite Aesthetic dress style and your recreation is beautiful.
Stunning! Love the inspiration, the realization and the aesthetic! Brava!
That dress is AMAZING! I have always wanted to recreate one of those Liberty smocked dresses, but I don’t have nearly your level of skill.
You can do it! It is all about patience. I would recommend starting with the Folkwear patterns smock patterns they have a couple different versions a great way to learn on a smaller garment.
Oh the details… my heart is melting over that wonderful smocking!
Absolutely Beautiful! I really Love this.
Beautiful! It does give me medieval vibes, and the embroidery is so intricate.
This is a dream and you look so beautiful. I think the forearms are my favorite part.
Beautiful work.
I have been admiring this project on Instagram for the last month– such a gorgeous aesthetic, a moment in art and fashion history that you occupy with conviction. Plus I just made my first smaocked project this past year, so I’m getting an extra kick out of seeing how you worked it. Well done!
Thank you! Don’t you just love smocking I think I need to make a simple smocked blouse to wear more frequently.
Oh my Faery Godmother this is so very exquisite! It is just so intricate, with deceptive simplicity from a distance. Graceful and feminine… I want one!
The aesthetics of this are just perfect. That pleating is sublime. Everything thing about this is just *chef’s kiss*.
There are not enough words….my absolute favorite! I love everything about it.
Phenomenal job! Definitely full of magic and I love all your details.
Oh!!! The work for the smocking is just amazing. I love it!
oh my goodness ♡ the smocking is so beautiful, and i can just imagine the work that went into this…. love the colour too, it looks so good on you and the photos are amazing
That smocking is so beautiful I want to cry–seriously! Amazing work!
Thank you (insert blushing emoji) !
The only thing I do not like about this dress is that in order to wear something similar for my wedding I’ll have to put the same amount of work into making it from scratch. This is just…wow. It’s everything I had been saving on Pinterest but better. Like Kait I had tears in my eyes. Congratulations. I keep coming back and looking at it.
Thank you! I didn’t want to make a straight Liberty & Co. replica but to put my own style and spin on it. A smocked wedding dress would be sooo pretty.
Amazing job on the smocking, and what stunning photography!
Thank you! My photographer is just amazing she did such a fantastic job of capturing the mood.
Your attention to detail on this project are immaculate….along with it just being utterly breathtaking. Amazing work!!
This is lovely, such gorgeous details!
You really nailed this Pre-Raphaelite style. I saw it immediately, even before reading your text. Love the smocks, love the delicate details. It’s gorgeous
Thank you everyone!!!
While the smocking caught my eye, it was the collar/yoke embroidery and the buttons that stole my breath away. Beautiful work.
Agreed!
Wow! This is outstanding! The smocking and embroidery are absolutely elegant. Beautiful
this is splendid. just beyond my words – and it suits you perfectly – and a sword ?! are you serious ? oh dear.
This is magnificent.
The details and execution are exquisite! I keep returning to your entry — its just that beautiful.
Thank you!
omg I LOVE THIS. If only you were on a boat in a river you’d be the lady of the lake! As a person who also is called Sophia, can I just say you make your people proud.
Haha! My people of Sophias. Thank you so much <3
Breathtaking!! This looks like a well preserved antique.. A ‘simple’ design at first glance from afar, then finding fine details and techniques the longer and closer you look. Fantastic work! <3
The time you took making the samples paid off handsomely with this piece! Everything is well executed and deliberate, it all adds to the wonderful aesthetic! What a gorgeous dress to wear! I hope it does see many more years of wear for you too!
I was admiring this on insta before you posted it and the details are amazing to see. Great work 🙂
This captures the spirit of the time so wonderfully. It really is art and craft combined to perfection, like something out of a Pre-Raphaelite painting. Truly marvelous.
This looks so wonderful!
I love this! Beautiful, beautiful smocking