FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Empathy
Outline the story …
After reading the theme of the Competition of this year, i thought quite immediately to a word: empathy. I think empathy could help to identify yourself with someone else or something else. So it's a door, a way for entering into another world.
With the word "empathy" i thought for something to wear before the full identification with a character, or an historical period, or some other aesthetics. Something to wear before the upper garments. Here came the idea for using only undergarments.
For my project i did not follow a particular aesthetic, but i like the styles of the late 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, so i prefered working on a style that recalls that period of time.
I mostly use no-saturated colours and plain colours because i'd like to recreate an introverted atmosphere. I'd also loved trying some new techniques like lace insertion, handmade button and corsetry, so i took the chance for trying them. The original project had also handmade laces, but i did a mess with them so at the end i took the laces at the haberdashery's! The corset is my very first corset and i was very nervous at the beginning, but i tried to follow the suggestions of the lessons and i also tried to be kind with myself.
I honestly enjoyed the whole creative process that took quite a lot of time and i loved this slow approach.
Everything is handsewn.
Outline the construction…
The project includes a petticoat, an underbust corset and a chemise.
The patterns i used are quite simple.
The petticoat has five panels (one front panel, two side panels and two back panels), and for drawing the pieces i follow the advices of the lessons "1890-1910, petticoats, part 3: shapes", by Sunny Buchler (the "Lacy petticoat"). My petticoat is made with a black light cotton fabric. I decorated it with lace insertion, then ruffles, laces, simple tassels and tapes. For the closing i added an handmade button, just above the placket. The button is a thread ring button - a dorset crosswheel. For making it i used a black cotton thread. On the petticoat i added also an handmade tape i made with an 18th century little box loom.
For the corset i used a pattern of Redthreaded that i modified for making an underbust corset. I used a second-hand striped fabric that i found in an antique shop. For the lining i used a bown light cotton and for the waistband a cotton tape. Then i used german plastic whalebones. The corset is decorated with braid and lace. The flossing is made with a cotton thread. For the closing i used eyelets. In the front i did not use a busk.
The chemise is made with a green cotton fabric decorated with laces, lace insertion, tape, passementerie and three green rhinestones.
Everything is mostly handsewn and i almost use backstitches.
I love the hem-detail on the skirt, the texture just gives it that little extra. Beautiful work.
Thank you a lot.
I really loved working on this project, also because i had the chance for trying new techniques. I spent hours for the skirt and i loved adding details and laces; couldn’t stop myself!
Old magazines give a lot of inspirations for fluffy petticoats
This is an absolutely incredible first corset! The fit and design is lovely, and the petticoat feels like an authentic piece – congratulations!
Thank you so much.
The corset was so hard to make for me!
I tried to match the stripes and being more accurate i could. I’m quite proud of It and i’ll do more corsets.
And i’ll probably use also this petticoat under my walking skirt during my every day life.