Ellundril Chariakin’s waistcoat



Emeline Barrès


Outline the story …

When the competition theme came out, I instantly know who I wanted to do, and in which outfit. Ellundril Chariakin, from Pierre Bottero's Les mondes d'Ewilan" (Ewilan 's worlds) serieS, is a marchombre, a shadowwalker, Chevaucheuse de brume (mist rider). "j’ouvre des chemins, et le destin se plie devant ma volonté (I open paths, and destiny is powerless to my will)". While she mostly wearS a leather armor in the books, I immediatly imagined her in a raw silk (which in French we call wild silk), very fitting here, in the colors of the moon and the mist. Another haiku of the marchombres also inspired me into realising this outfit, which is
Crocs brillants,
Reflet de lune exubérant,
Noir retour.
(Flash of fangs
Exuberant moonbean,
Dark return.)
As a complete beginner in the world of sewing (the shirt was my 2nd sewing project, the waistcoat the 3rd, though I do embroider), that was quite the project. Of course I didn’t have a pattern for the waistcoat, so used pattern for a XVIIIth century riding jacket from Janet Arnold pattern of fashion 1 (the jacket of a riding habit, 1730-50) and tried to adapt it, using as a reference several portraits dispaying women in riding habits of the period. For the shirt, I used the basic pattern from Bernadette Banner’s video, and referenced several shirts on the Met’s website.

Outline the construction…

Both the shirt and the waistcoat were entirely sewn by hand. The shirt is made of irish linen, and was quite simple in construction (and in the non-existent fitting). For the waistcoat, things were a lot more challenging for my beginner’s brain. First, the mock-up stage, where I had to fit myself, while doing a fitting exercise for the second time of my life, wasn’t easy (it shows). Second, while the embroidery pattern isn’t the traditionnal one, I wanted the construction to be as authentic as I could make it. I used Zack Pinsent’s 2 videos on XVIIIth waistcoats, and imitated the construction, which can be seen on one of the pictures (the broadcloth seen on the picture was only used on the button side, on the buttonhole side there is only the linen double folded strip. I however added a layer of cotton to the raw silk, as it was rather loosely woven, and the glazik embroidery (inspired from Pascal Jaouen’s work) in silk would’ve bunched the fabric even worse. The back is linen and that same cotton, and the thread used are either linen thread, of a kind of cotton thread we often use in bobbin lace to imitate silk (thicker than the usual cotton thread, and shiny).




  1. Avatar Avery on March 11, 2021 at 7:12 pm

    This is amazing! I especially love the embroidery and the silvery color of the silk, so good!

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 12, 2021 at 6:53 am

      Thank you so much ! I fell in love with that raw silk as well =D

  2. Avatar JANE TAYLOR-BOUVARD on March 11, 2021 at 8:17 pm

    Intriguing, thoughtful and magical…

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 12, 2021 at 6:56 am

      Then my goal was achieved…. =D Thank you so much Jane !

  3. Kitty Mortensen Kitty Mortensen on March 12, 2021 at 9:54 am

    Your needlework is inspiring! the attention to detail is magical!

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 14, 2021 at 8:05 pm

      Thank you so much for your kind comments !

  4. Avatar Floriane Descloquemant on March 12, 2021 at 10:30 am

    Mais ouuii Les Mondes d’Ewilan quelle bonne idée !!
    C’est vraiment réussi en tout cas, et les broderies sont superbes !

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 14, 2021 at 8:05 pm

      Ouiii super quelqu’un qui connait ! =D Ce monde et la chevaucheuse de brume sont trop poétiques pour ne pas inspirer….
      Merci beaucoup !

  5. Avatar Laurie on March 12, 2021 at 7:07 pm

    Great stitching and details! I love that shirt.

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 14, 2021 at 8:06 pm

      Thank you ! I love it too, and am already getting a lot of everyday wear out of it 😉

  6. Sophia Khan Sophia Khan on March 13, 2021 at 1:07 am

    The embroidery detail is just lovely!

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 14, 2021 at 8:07 pm

      Thank you ! Those silk threads embellish everything they touch indeed !

  7. Avatar Sammyra on March 13, 2021 at 7:23 am

    the details are so beautiful, really well done ♡

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 14, 2021 at 8:09 pm

      Thank you for your comment ! It’s a labor of love =D

  8. Avatar Elowen Blackthorn on March 13, 2021 at 2:03 pm

    Beautiful work, the embroidery adds a lovely and unique flair!

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 14, 2021 at 8:10 pm

      Thank you ! If you want more examples of this kind of embrodery (though colorful instead of monochrome), you should check out Pascal Jaouen’s work ! =D

  9. Avatar Annette Fitzgerald on March 14, 2021 at 9:38 pm

    The Waistcoat looks stunning! And your Embroidery is beautiful.

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 19, 2021 at 7:02 pm

      Thank you for your comment !

  10. Avatar Valerie Meachum on March 15, 2021 at 1:30 am

    Wow! That embroidery! And the topstitching. This is just stunning all around.

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 19, 2021 at 7:03 pm

      Thank you so much !

  11. Avatar Audra Borders on March 16, 2021 at 6:24 pm

    You have such a talent with embroidery. It’s wonderful

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 19, 2021 at 7:03 pm

      Thank you, I love this kind of embroidery from Brittany =)

  12. Avatar AnnaCatherine Sendgikoski on March 20, 2021 at 4:46 am

    To me the simple construction of the shirt, when done right, as you have here, is stunning! That waistcoat is beautiful! If you call this beginner work, I don’t stand a chance! Thank you!

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 24, 2021 at 8:09 am

      Oh my, thank you but don’t say that ! I’m somewhat handy with a needle, but there’s a lot of fit issues XD

  13. Avatar Laura Ingalls Gunn on March 21, 2021 at 10:53 pm

    Wow! Truly stunning workmanship. Lovely details!

    • Avatar Emeline Barrès on March 24, 2021 at 8:10 am

      Thank you for your comment, I appreciate it !

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.