FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Angelica Neal: a courtesan in 1785 London
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Outline the story …
The character I have chosen for my entry is the character of Angelica Neal, a courtesan living and working in the world of Imogen Hermes Gowar's 2018 novel "The Mermaid and Mrs. Hancock". When I first read this book, I was utterly spellbound by Gowar's descriptions of late eighteenth century life in London, and was fascinated by the character of Angelica Neal. Angelica is a courtesan who moves within the upper echelons of 1785 London, and can be at times vain, selfish, and greedy. She is drawn into the world of Mr. Hancock, a merchant who possesses a fascinating treasure: a mermaid.
I have been wanting to try historical costuming for some time, and I decided to make a full set of eighteenth century undergarments and accessories that Angelica Neal may have worn. I decided to use a blue colour scheme as a nod to the mermaid and of the marine-themed party thrown at the bawdy house of Mrs. Elizabeth Chappell. This was my first time making any sort of foundational garment, and I wanted to draw inspiration from this intriguing character and wonderful story.
Outline the construction…
This was the first major historical costuming piece I have ever attempted to make. I have sewn a bit in the past, but never this ambitiously. I decided to work with a pattern, and I used Simplicity and American Duchess pattern number 8162 to construct the chemise and the stays. I made the chemise from a lightweight white cotton, and sewed it by machine. The stays are three layers: two layers of heavy cotton canvas and a top layer of cotton that I dyed blue myself to get the perfect shade. I made some changes to the pattern, making the stays fully boned instead of half boned. I machine sewed all the boning channels, and hand sewed all the finishings including the binding, twill tape, and all of the eyelet holes. The hand sewing was a first for me, ans started off very difficult, but as I got the proper tools (a leather thimble and a better needle) I fell into a comfortable rhythm and started enjoying the meditative process of hand sewing. The boning is plastic zip ties, and the lacing is all done with twill tape.
I decided to make some accessories for the ensemble as well. I bought a plain fan and decorated it using eighteenth century fan images as inspiration. I also took an old pair of heels and covered them in blue fabric and trim to match the stays, building up the front of the shoes to give them an eighteenth century look.
Excellent- well done
Really beautiful work and you look beautiful in it.
This is so fantastical- very magical. I Love it so much! Well done!
This is an amazing combination. I like the blue. Very neat work.
This color is so soothing ❤ Your stitching is very neat and delicate, well done!
The whole vibe of this makes me want to get the whole get up! Great work!
It looks sooo well made! I love the colour, it’s perfect!
Gorgeous fit, well done!
Truly beautiful. Your attention to detail is masterful.
The finishing is exquisite! Well done
Wow, this is beautiful! I love this! Thank you!
This looks wonderful! I really like the colours, everything fits together so well.
I love the pastel blue shade! Well done, the stays fit wonderfully and are beautifully finished, and I love the matching fan and shoes too!
I love it!! Your workmanship, your colours….it’s perfect.