FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
A Hundred Summers
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Other Credits
Photos by K (https://www.instagram.com/its.cosplay.k/)
Outline the story …
While there are many fairy tale versions of the sleeping beauty story, I have long been fascinated by Alfred, Lord Tennyson's 1830 interpretation, "The Sleeping Beauty" (later expanded into "The Day-Dream"). The princess's jet-black hair and golden pillow are beautifully described—but what garments has she been wearing for 100 years of peaceful slumber? My take on her clothing was inspired by medieval gowns of the 13th to 15th centuries, particularly the ensemble worn by the princess in Jost Haller's painting "Saint George slaying the dragon." My version of Sleeping Beauty dons soft, lightweight kirtles and bliauts/cotehardies in pale hues (specifically blue and pink in homage to the 1959 Disney film, which I found reflected in a great many paintings such as the 1408 Limbourg piece "St. Jerome Tempted by Dancing Girls"). Instead of one gown, I chose to create two—a loosely fitted overdress with flowing sleeves and a tighter fitting kirtle beneath. Both dresses are long (of the tripping-hazard variety) as befitting someone of royalty, but sparsely decorated at the princess's insistence.
Outline the construction…
Sleeping Beauty's bliaut/cotehardie/overdress is made of 100% linen in a Raul blue tone. The body of the dress was altered from the McCalls M5155 pattern, but the long sleeves are self-drafted. Self-drafting is something I had never tried prior to this project, and now I'm excited to draft more difficult pieces. The sleeve lining is printed cotton in blue and gold—and while it's not exactly historically accurate, the design reminds me of the detailing in medieval paintings. The basic construction was done by machine, while any detail work (including the attachment of the sleeve lining by ladder stitch) was completed by hand. I chose to have the garment close in the front with clasps, much like the Haller gown referenced in my inspiration above.
The kirtle/underdress consists entirely of a thin, pale pink linen. I was originally going to have it lace up the front but decided to use side lacings so that the pink you see through the gap in the overdress is smooth. The construction seams were again done by machine, with all detailing and felling finished by hand. The lacing cords are my first attempt at finger-loop braids, which I learned by watching Morgan Donner's video on braiding. While they suffice to lace the gown, I want to remake them in the future so that they are a tighter, more consistent braid.
I learned a lot about medieval clothing during this project, and am looking forward to using many more historical sewing techniques in the future!
I love the homage to the Disney. This looks absolutely awesome!
Thank you very much!
This is a beautiful outfit. I’m a big fan of the overdress in particular – I love the details of the front clasps and sleeve linings. Very well done! And it fits you so well 🙂
The sleeve linings are my favorite aspect of the whole ensemble!
That overgown. . . *swoons*
Thank you, I’m so happy with it!
This dress fits you very well! Great job!
Thanks so much!
Oof that under gown is such a nice pink that complements the blue so we’ll! And those sleeves! My goodness you did lovely and such a beautiful fabric
Thank you, I was very happy with the way the colors played together. Choosing the exact hues was a little stressful!
Very pretty, I love the long dramatic sleeves!
If there’s a way for me to work in dramatic sleeves, I absolutely will.. every single time. Thank you!
I love the side lacing and that you made your own cording. Lovely work!
Thank you! I’m anxious to rebraid my cording for a tighter weave.
I love everything about this dress! You look amazing and should be very proud!
Thank you, you’re too kind!
This dress is amazing!
Thank you so very much!
This is so beautifully done and fits like a glove! As someone who grew up watching Disney (and even had a Cinderella barbie doll!), I really appreciate this colour palette too, but the medieval style looks very elegant and regal! Great work!
Thank you! I couldn’t resist incorporating in the classic 1959 colours, especially once I found portraits with similar hues!
Nicely done! Even with a nod to Disney, it looks entirely your own!
That means a lot, thank you very much!
Such a beautiful ensemble, I love the color combination the the printed sleeve lining <3
Thank you! I’m such a sucker for that lining.