The Rose Gown

I drafted the pattern with inspiration from diagram XV in the book ”Cut of women’s clothes” by Norah Waugh. I used cotton sateen and a cotton lining. Machine sewn, the trims on the skirt part is hand stitched. The lining has lacing panels in the front and cotton tapes to adjust the back. First I made a fitted lining, after that I made the watteau pleats on top of the back of the lining and folded the front robings temporarly. Then I adjusted the fit with the robings on my body. The stomacher has a metallic net that I sewed on by hand, on top I made bows that are sewn on to the edges of the stomacher, same as the one found in ”patterns of fashion 6”. The stomachers inside is fully boned with synthetic baleen. I filled the puff trim tubes with smaller tarlatan tubes to get volume. The roses are made by hand by making small tubes that I sewed together with the edges a bit offset to get a twisted tube that I gathered. The engegants are gathered wide lace sewn on to a tape to be pinned on.
Stays: the pattern I drafted by looking at pictures of an extant pair of stays. I used the arc method taught by Luca Costigliolo. They are fully boned and made of two layers of cotton canvas, a polyester fashion fabric and a cotton lining. I also made large pocket hoops and the petticoat of prequilted cotton fabric.