FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
The Raven Vest
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
When I heard that the theme for Foundations Revealed 2023 was “nature” I knew I’d have to think about how that would apply to me. Hi, I’m Icy, and I’m a goth. Yep, I pretty much only wear black, so a nature theme was going to be tricky. But once it struck me that ravens are black, I knew I had something I could work with. I sketched up a few ideas and settled on a design for a vest where the bird was across the back and the wings wrapped around the body, specifically with the pieces as part of the pattern, rather than appliqued on.
This was the first time I’d created my own sloper from my body measurements and the first time I’d created a true pattern from scratch (rather than just copying an existing garment). The mockup vest from the sloper was also the first time I’d sewn a shawl collar, and the final Raven Vest was the first time I’d made anything double-breasted. The feathers across the back were my own design, and worked perfectly (and I have plans to make more outfits) and it was the first time covering my own buttons.
I’m so proud of my Raven Vest. It looks like the design in my head, and it FITS, and that might be the most wonderful thing about sewing (for me).
Outline the construction…
Fabrics
-Black gabardine suiting, inherited from a friend 20 years ago (gulp). Burn test indicates it’s likely cotton
-Black crystal organza scrap
-Black and grey polyester velvet scraps
-Woven interfacing (velvet) and fusible interfacing (collar and front facing)
-Scrap grey linen (lining)
-Thrifted buttons (covered in fabric)
Techniques
-I started with a self-drafted sloper on a mannequin and sketched the design onto the fabric, cut the pieces, and transferred onto paper to make a pattern
-I removed the side seams so as to not to interfere with the wings
-On each panel I ran a machine basting stitch inside the seam allowance. By feeling for the stitching, I was able to pin together the very curved seams and sew them accurately
-As the velvet couldn't be top-stitched or pressed, each section is backed with woven interfacing, then herringbone-stitched to catch the seam allowances to the velvet
-Feathers were cut on the fold, sewn along the “spine”, and the edges finished by melting
Challenges
-Sewing this velvet before went unsuccessfully, but as there were such small sections, this time if was fine
-The gabardine shifted while sewing and frayed terribly. Next time I’d finish the edges immediately on cutting
-The vest was too short in the waist but adding a “tail” added length while helping the shape
-Removing side seams complicated adding facings and lining, but hand-sewing gave a good final result
-The original velvet collar looked too “robe” like, and was replaced with the base fabric
I love the feather details and the combination of fabrics and textures to emulate the natural world.
What a cool creation! You’ve incorporated the wings into the vest so well
I was sold at the double breasted vest. The wing detail looks so great and creative