FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
the Fool’s Doublet
(click images to to enlarge)
Other Credits
photographer : Chloé Vos
Outline the story …
The outfit is composed of a doublet, a shirt, and some hastily sewn stockings, which are more to be considered as accessories.
My inspiration was the character of the Fool in Robin Hobb's Farseer's trilogies. He's a court jester and much more, very gender-fluid, and my queer adolescence would not have been the same without him.
I wanted to craft one his jester suits, but not the usual black and white suit, often depicted as his winter attire throughout the books ; instead I chose something more similar to a traditional jester suit, which I associated to spring festivities perhaps - using the colors traditionally linked with jesters, red, green and yellow. I enhanced the green fabric with small flowers embroideries, to go with the spring idea as well as being a reminiscence of the garment I based my pattern on.
On the collar, I embroidered two different deers, one charging and one passing, each one being the sigil of the two persons his allegiance goes to.
I wasn't sure of the era I wanted to inspire myself of, and tried to combine a XVIIe doublet with more middle-age-looking laps and stockings. I kept my earring for the photos, because some Elizabethan stuff thrown into the mix never hurt anyone.
The shirt, which can be seen under the doublet, has been embroidered as well, inspired by both blackwork embroideries and the Codex Manesse, and to keep a flowery line along the outfit.
Outline the construction…
I wanted to give it a Renaissance-esque try, but wasn't sure how, and therefore went for a doublet pattern made by Luca Costigliolo for the" 17th-century Men's Dress Patterns", edited by the V&A. I had the good fortune of being relatively of the right size, and had only a few things to change.
I managed to use only fabric I already had in my stash, and the only thing I bought was a yellow thread spool. Alas it also means that I have no idea of what exactly the yellow and red fabric I used are.
A strong, old cotton fabric was use for the interlining, and the lining (where I had the time to put it) is a light cotton and silk blend. I quite enjoyed embroidering all of it and discovered, along the flowers, that I could do a very lovely flower-center with a web stitch.
The biggest challenge was time, and also the treachery of bias, because I hadn't planned that slashing that doublet would also mean bias all along those forsaken slashings.
Which I had to do, first by machine, and then by hand, and that took me a certain while which I hadn't planned for, and obliged me to rush the rest of it (hence the poorly made stockings, and the absence of codpiece, buttons, or hat, which I'm quite sad for).
Eventually it pushed me to figure out ways of making it work that I wouldn't have found, had I not been procrastinating.
The embroidery details are just lovely, the whole ensemble is just perfect!
thanks a lot ! I love embroidery, and I’m very happy that it worked out well.
Another Robin Hobb! Man, I bet she’d LOVE this!!! I’m gonna share it with her. ^_^
sweet Eda, I think that if she were to look upon my work and judge it worthy of her, I’d honestly could die happy !
not on the spot, though; i still have to craft the cap, and a proper pair of hose, and the rat-thing… well you see what I mean x)
This is amazing!
thank you 😀
Yesss! Love this series and the embroidery/construction work on this doublet is amazing.
thanks a lot !
This is one of my favorites series and I was super hyped to work on it ^_^
Also it was about time that I made myself a doublet, I love these and I honestly could wear them all the time haha
This is gorgeous!
thank you so much !
This outfit is stunning, eye-pleasing, inventive, and well-executed. You used color, shape, line, and embellishment to excellent effect. I appreciate the complexity and quality of what you attempted–and achieved!.
I also find it meaningful and heart-warming to read about how this character was important in your adolescence.
thank you !
I almost gave up a few times but I’m glad I kept on going.
I really appreciate your comment <3
Lovely work! The mix of colours and embroidery in the parti coloured outfit work so well. Beautiful interpretation of the story and character.
Thanks a lot ! I was afraid that the embroidery would un-balance the costume, but I’m quite happy with the result 😀
The embroidered details are really stunning, well done!!
oh, thank you ^_^
OH! This is a perfect example of small well executed details shining through and making a beautiful and overall complex garment. It has such character. Love the colour combination and love the overall look, Elizabethan earring and all! Congratulations of completing such a gorgeous outfit!
waw, thank you 🙂
I’m so happy I managed to complete the doublet.
I really love this earring, it’s definitely in the top 10 of my favourite belongings.
This is a wonderful outfit, congratulations!
thanks a lot 😀
This is wonderful. Everything fits so well together and the embroidery is amazing.
Thank you 🙂 I’m glad I gave this embroidery the time it deserved.
Thank you 🙂 I’m glad I gave this embroidery the time it deserved.
Gosh, I love this so much! The embroidery is fabulous, and all that yellow trim! I can see why it must have taken you ages! I love the Robin Hobb books too, and seeing how you brought the character to life makes me so happy! Well done! (Also, your pearl earring is definitely a look!)
thank you ^_^
I was sure I’d go faster, but a cat kept confusing my embroidery with a hammoc and the trim was everywhere. I had to rush everything else ^^’
Thanks a lot 😀 I’m really happy that I finally took a shot at it. I had seen a lot of black-and-white cosplays but it wasn’t quite what I was looking for ^^
thanks :3
This is AWESOME!! Great work <3
thanks a lot ^_^ I did my best 😀