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Shallan’s Havah
(click images to to enlarge)
https://youtu.be/WCM20PzfH7M
Outline the story …
This costume is based on Shallan Davar from the book series "The Stormlight Archive" by Brandon Sanderson. The world is extensively fleshed out, which is what made me want to try to make a costume for one of its characters.
The costume is based off the main clothing style women of the character’s faith and social class wear (called a havah). The main components of this are the high collar, side closure, ample skirts (while being tight around the body), and most importantly, the covered left hand. There are also descriptions of the dresses being bound around the hem with contrasting fabrics that can be easily replaced when worn out, or with split skirts to show a different dress underneath. The dresses are also very often embroidered, and the character is also always described as wearing blue clothing.
I decided to go with two separate garments. The first, an underdress, being the supportive garment used to give the desired shape, while the overdress would show the other necessary characteristics of the costume. I made the wide parts of the sleeves removable, both because it seemed to fit with the general theme among these garments of being multi-purpose/easily fixable (sleeves could be interchangeable to create different looks or to be replaced when worn out), and because then I can wear the overdress like a coat in other situations. The embroidery was loosely based on the movement of joy spren (spren are spirit like things that are tied to different objects/emotions etc.).
Outline the construction…
Due to the nature of the world of the Stormlight Archive, the most common fabrics are linen and silk, although cotton has not been completely ruled out canonically. Due to budget constraints, I had to settle for a thick dark blue cotton for the underdress, a thin light blue cotton for the overdress lining, and some sort of light blue non-stretchy polyester blend from my stash for the overdress.
For the construction, I drafted a kirtle pattern using La Cotte Simple’s method for fitting a bust supportive dress with a straight front seam. In fact, all the methods I used to create this were either what my grandmother taught me or from La cotte Simple. I used this pattern for both the underdress and the body of the overdress. However, for the sleeves and collar of the overdress I used a vintage simplicity pattern, with some minor modifications to make it suit the bodice. I did have to add an underarm gusset to improve the fit, which was probably the most difficult sewing thing I’ve ever done.
The underdress is unlined, while the overdress was flatlined. For both garments, the seams were all sewn using a machine, but the raw edges were hand felled down; it’s the first time I’ve finished my edges like this. The eyelets for the underdress were all hand bound, while the button holes on the overdress were done by machine. I used a simple single button closure on the removable overdress sleeves.
I can’t explain how incredibly excited I am to see a Havah in the entries. If I had entered, a havah is absolutely what I would have made.
I love your look here – the fabrics pull off the look and you’re hitting all the right points for this character. I am only appalled to have seen your safehand in one photo! ;p
I love your inclusion of the embroidery and your inspiration from joyspren.
I think there might be an awespren around here 🙂
I have never read this series but am now seriously due to do so!
I too would like to compliment you on the fit and the design elements you have included, which really build your character and bring her to life! Gorgeous fabric choices!!
I don’t know the books. But I like this very “futuristic” look of your garment. Especially in the film it is good to see how they come together. I wonder: Is the mask part of the garment or a 2020 must have because of filming in the parkgarage? It certainly goes well with this garment, covered left hand etc
The fit is very nice, especially on the dress!
A Havah! I love that you chose Shallan Davar as your inspiration, and the Stormlight Archives as a whole. The embroidery inspired by joyspren is such a creative choice, and it looks wonderful. I am due a re-read, and I think this is now how I will picture Shallan.
The convertible nature of these garments is a really neat feature.
I love this! It’s really very well done! Thank you!
I hadn’t heard of the havah but now must definitely do more research. And also add this book to my reading list. The sleeves and front closure are gorgeous – and the spin in the video shows off the outfit so well. The fabric looks wonderful too.