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No Coward Soul- An Emily Bronte-Inspired Dress

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Divya Ramasamy Venkatesamoorthy

Outline the story …

No Coward Soul is Mine is one of the most characteristic poems of Emily Bronte whose simple life and her sad death at a young age find echoes in this poem. It is about the relationship between the poet and the "God within her breast". According to her, this element of God is present everywhere. She imagines that there isn't just one sun and universe, but many of them, and one day they might actually cease to be, yet life, in a sense, might not end. She feels the presence of God in the sweeping moors near her home. Since the character in the poem is Emily herself, I wanted to make a dress that embodied her spirit.

Emily was a 'village' girl who was reportedly mocked for wearing 'unfashionable' clothes. She probably wore hand-made clothes or mended hand-me-downs. This dress closely recalls the image of Emily walking the moors while, perhaps, conjuring up the lines of this very poem. The poem invoked for me the picture of Emily wearing something simple and practical on her long walks that provided her the much needed respite from her daily chores .

All the while I was very conscious of how the costume must suit my cultural and climatic context in India where I can use it every day. Thus, I settled on this design – a cotton dress, just below the knee, and half sleeves- light, simple and free.

Outline the construction…

Disclaimer: I am a novice, I have made but two pieces of clothing before this (a skirt and pinafore - both massive learning experiences and unwearable). Challenges: Limited budget, limited cloth and unlimited amount of time. I do not own a sewing machine and can’t invest in one, as I am primarily trained as an Architect (that helped in patterning, a LOT). Patterns (for historical western dresses) are simply not available here, neither are patterning books (like Janet Arnold’s). But, thanks to the internet, I found a ton of resources even though I had to rummage around a bit. I looked at many, many images, found some patterns, some blog posts, and drew out a pattern So it is not historically accurate – just inspired. And I convinced myself, that I was making a dress, capturing the β€˜spirit’ of Emily Bronte (oooh, I think she would like that, based on Wuthering Heights). My stitching has vastly improved from the start of this project, the lines are straighter, the stitches are tighter and smaller as they neared the end I haven’t finished the seams on the inside and the gathered white lining for fullness, was an after-thought.I didn’t have enough material to make full sleeves or a fuller skirt I tried to inset piping at all seams, however it seemed too difficult to do by hand, and I abandoned the piping after fixing it only in the back. I can wear it outside here, even if it turns some heads.

COMMENTS

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53 Comments

  1. Retro Claude on March 11, 2021 at 7:52 pm

    What an extraordinary achievement to make your own historically-inspired pattern. What an amazing dress!

    • Divya RV on March 12, 2021 at 1:07 am

      Thank you so much!

      • Avatar Murrianna on March 14, 2021 at 3:35 am

        Lovely! And so much work. Inspiring.

        • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:43 pm

          Thank you for your comment:)

    • Avatar Gillian Harvey on March 13, 2021 at 5:50 am

      I love this dress. Patterndrafting your own pattern is a wonderful way to make a very special dress like this.

  2. Avatar Lindsey on March 12, 2021 at 2:34 am

    I absolutely adore this dress that you have made, especially the ruching detail under the bust. Great job!

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:45 pm

      Thank you so much:)

  3. Avatar Kathryn Coelho on March 12, 2021 at 3:00 am

    I commend you on how wonderfully you have interpreted the story, your intent, the design, and the materials available into a PERFECT dress to wear in India. BRAVO! (I have traveled to India a few times and this dress checks all the boxes for me.)

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:45 pm

      So glad to read your comment! Thank you:)

  4. Ashley Taylor Anderson on March 12, 2021 at 4:03 am

    This dress is so lovely, and that fabric! Adore it.

  5. Avatar Jo Hertel on March 12, 2021 at 6:14 am

    Itβ€˜s beautiful! I think both the fabric and the dress itself fit Charlotte very well – the fabric with the little plants or branches signifying her love of nature; but itβ€˜s also a simple, white cotton (?) with no pretense about it, which is also very Charlotte. And the dress itself is indeed practical, but also has some surprising flourishes with the ruching in the bodice and the sleeves…. perfect!

  6. Avatar Rebecca on March 12, 2021 at 2:49 pm

    I love this dress! your choice of fabric is so loveley. and the touches of smocking at the arms and waist make the dress so special. a beautiful historybounding garment! well done. good luck from icarus!

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:46 pm

      Thank you so much:)

  7. Avatar Anette on March 12, 2021 at 7:16 pm

    Wow! What a lovely dress! I think it is very impressive that you sewed the whole thing without a sewing machine! And also that you made your own pattern. Its cool that it is inspired by history, yet very wearable for today.

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:46 pm

      Thank you very much:)

  8. Avatar Carolien van Alphen on March 12, 2021 at 7:29 pm

    What a great fabric. I love the subtle detail of the pattern turning 90 degrees between pattern pieces.

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:47 pm

      That was more due to the shortage of fabric than a design choice πŸ˜› Still, glad you like it:)

  9. Laurie on March 12, 2021 at 9:39 pm

    Lovely dress! Very nice fabric.

  10. Avatar Shiv Ragini Rajagopal on March 13, 2021 at 6:24 am

    Such a lovely dress β™₯️

    • Divya on March 21, 2021 at 2:53 pm

      Thank you very much😊

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:47 pm

      Thank you Shiva:)

  11. Avatar Shwetha Muthu on March 13, 2021 at 9:09 am

    So pretty! Love the design of the dress and the pattern of the fabrik- goes so well together! And loooveee the design concept and what it means to you. It’s super impressive that it was done by hand! ❀❀

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:48 pm

      Thank you Shwetha:)

  12. Avatar Priyanka on March 13, 2021 at 12:28 pm

    Such a beautiful dress and love the concept / thought behind it. It is delightfully Indian yet ties in with character of Emily so well! Kudos to you for hand stitching such a beautiful dress! Absolutely love it

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:48 pm

      Thank you Priyanka:)

  13. Sophia Khan Sophia Khan on March 13, 2021 at 12:52 pm

    It is so pretty! I adore the textile.

  14. Avatar Senthil And Chitra on March 13, 2021 at 12:55 pm

    Very nice divya..you are a multi talented person. Very Well designed. my best wishes for your upcoming designs

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:49 pm

      Thank you so much:)

  15. Avatar teresa marchand on March 13, 2021 at 2:28 pm

    love, love, love this dress!
    I am so inspired to make one just like it!
    Very much in awe of what you have made, especially considering this is one of your first projects ?!!!!!
    You already have such good instincts and an intuitive sense of design that can’t be learned.
    I am sure your skills will only improve and your projects become greater successes!
    Bravo!

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:50 pm

      Thank you so much! This is such a kind compliment and boosts my confidence a lot. Glad to have inspired some sewing:)

  16. Avatar Sarah Helgeson on March 13, 2021 at 4:16 pm

    Beautiful dress! I think you captured her spirit well.

  17. Avatar Valerie on March 16, 2021 at 3:49 am

    Historybounding at its best! All the 1840s influences are clear (that smocking!), yet it looks so chic and modern. And suits you so well!

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:51 pm

      Thank you:) Yay for historybounding!

  18. Avatar Deepthi on March 17, 2021 at 4:46 pm

    The dress is so lovely divi ❀️
    You interpretation with your own twist and the way you have put it into words is in a way very soothing to read

  19. Avatar Elowen Blackthorn on March 21, 2021 at 2:40 pm

    Oh I like this so much! Very well done!

    • Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:52 pm

      Thank you so much:)

  20. Avatar AnnaCatherine Sendgikoski on March 22, 2021 at 5:37 am

    So very nice! I am in awe of your talent! I love everything about this dress! I can imagine being an architect makes it easy to draft your own patterns! Thank you!

  21. Divya RV on March 22, 2021 at 1:50 pm

    Thank you:)

  22. Avatar Benigna on March 26, 2021 at 10:21 am

    This dress is wonderful! I really like the fabric you chose.

  23. Avatar Vanessa Isobel on March 26, 2021 at 10:45 pm

    Beautiful. I’m sure Emily would love it, and you can frolic around embracing your own piece of her πŸ™‚

  24. Constance MacKenzie Constance MacKenzie on March 28, 2021 at 6:04 pm

    Beautiful use of a block print and a lovely pattern.

    • Divya RV on March 30, 2021 at 5:02 pm

      Thank you so much!!

  25. PK Reynolds McKnight PK Reynolds McKnight on March 28, 2021 at 11:39 pm

    Beautifully done!

  26. Avatar Sue (sue-mcfluzen) Assenmacher on March 29, 2021 at 5:16 am

    I love your dress. You did a fantastic job.

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