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Divider_GoldMoth

Moon Goddess

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Cassandra S. J. Al-Towaiji

LINKS:

(click images to to enlarge)

Other Credits

Photographer;https://www.instagram.com/jasminphotos09/

Outline the story …

This gown was inspired by Kii Weatherson’s art piece “Seven Seraphs. Moon Goddess” from 2017. The dress itself seems to be made of the night filled with stars, fit for a goddess. I instantly fell in love with it when I first saw it, and knew I had to make it.

Though her design is stunning, I decided to change the dress to a late Victorian ball gown, specifically 1901, as I saw similarities between Weatherton’s design and the 1901-silhouette.

The trained ball gown skirt fit the design and visual of my inspiration piece. To recreate the watercolour effect of Weatherton’s art, I layered two layers of blue silk organza, which I dip-dyed purplish-black, over a bright silver silk taffeta. To imitate the stars, I attached rhinestones to the entirety of the skirt.

The bodice gave me some trouble due to the design choices I had to make. Compared to the skirt, it was more difficult to transform the revealing and low-cut bodice from the art piece to a Victorian evening bodice. However, to still incorporate her star decorated cape and for the shape of the plunge, I chose a bodice-style with a short capelet that drapes over the shoulders, and meet in a point, creating a V shape at the bodice’ front. To make the V-shape more pronounced I decided to decorate the entire bodice except the V, with rhinestones.

Due to lack of time and money I had to forego the golden hip swirlies, in Weatherton’s design.

Outline the construction…

I altered the skirt pattern from a bought trumpet-skirt pattern from 1901. I did not have the silk for the elaborate lining shown in the “Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques (AVDT)” for an evening skirt. Instead, I followed the construction for a walking skirt, and interlined my skirt in tarlatan and cotton, and added a hem facing in tarlatan and voile. I decided to go for a back closure where I installed a pocket into the placket.

I wanted a perfect gradient between all the panels of the overskirt, so I thread-marked and basted them together before dyeing. To further soften the gradient, the ombré-effect starts at different heights on each skirt layer. The rhinestones were also attached the skirt panels before they were constructed using French seams and rolled hemmed on the machine. I originally wanted to do it by hand, but after spending 3 days on roll-hemming the cape by hand, and suffer for it because of my hand disability, it just wasn’t an option.

I drafted the bodice pattern using “Keystone” and then altered the seamlines into princess-seams to highlight the front V. I referenced the pattern from marquise.de for a princess style dress. I also went for a taffeta lining in the bodice, as per AVDT instructions for a nice but light structure. All layers in the bodice were roll-pined for a smoother look as well. Hooks and eyes were installed in both bodice and waistband, so the bodice and skirt wouldn’t gab when being worn.

COMMENTS

Divider_GoldMoth

8 Comments

  1. Avatar Kara on April 19, 2024 at 1:08 am

    This gown has such a subtle grace that is absolutely beautiful!! I love your “less is more” approach with the rinestones and ombre dying, it makes it feel so realistic like a real shimmering night sky!

    • Avatar Cassandra Sif Jensen Al-Towaiji on April 19, 2024 at 9:21 am

      Thank you so much! The ombre part is definitely also my favourite part of this gown and I tried my best at finding the smallest stones possible.

  2. Kitty Mortensen Kitty Mortensen on April 19, 2024 at 9:24 pm

    This is so pretty abs dainty, very understated in the most elaborate way. Beautiful work.

    • Avatar Cassandra Sif Jensen Al-Towaiji on April 20, 2024 at 7:54 am

      Thank you so much, it means the world.

  3. Avatar Jenny B on April 24, 2024 at 6:08 pm

    You did a fantastic job on the fabric dyeing, and your construction is perfection! A really lovely design.

    • Avatar Cassandra Sif Jensen Al-Towaiji on April 24, 2024 at 10:01 pm

      Thank you so much! I also did a lot of extra construction work just to get a clean finish, and I am so happy I did.

  4. Maeri Certo on May 12, 2024 at 2:37 pm

    Beautiful work, and I love the subtle but sparkling details!

  5. Constance MacKenzie Constance MacKenzie on May 13, 2024 at 8:06 pm

    Beautifully ethereal well done.

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