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Miss Havisham’s Wedding Dress
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
One of the most unpleasant women in literature, Miss Havisham from Charles Dicken’s "Great Expectations" is the perfect example of someone who, to quote U2, got stuck in a moment. Miss Havisham’s father owned a very lucrative brewery. It made him enough money to make him rich and just barely a gentleman. Havisham’s love interest Compeyson didn’t love her at all though she was completely devoted to him. He stole from her and broke her heart. From that day on, she was essentially in mourning. The clocks stopped, the curtains closed, everything remaining as it was the moment, she learned of his deception. Only changed by time and decay. Dickens writes, “She was dressed in rich materials-satins, and lace, and silks- all of white.” Though time had yellowed her clothing.
The story was written in 1860 and is told from the point-of-vies of Pip who at the time of the writing is maybe 35 or a little older. When the story opens, we meet Pip as a young boy of 7. If Pip was 35 in 1860, he would have been born in 1825, thus Miss Havisham’s wedding would have been scheduled to take place before 1825 though most place it earlier. Most film adaptations of Great Expectations feature Miss Havisham as a very old woman in very Victorian dress. If we take a close look at the clues in the book Miss Havisham is probably in her forties.
Outline the construction…
This ensemble is comprised of two pieces, a gown of silk taffeta and a Chantilly lace overdress. The process began in the spring of 2020 when I was able to make a copy of an extant silk taffeta gown from the early 1800s. That was my first experience in pattern making. When designing a gown that fits Miss Havisham’s description, I returned to that pattern, though I scaled it up to my size, made different sleeves, and draped a new back. The gown is very plain, and I wanted to add more interest, so I took some inspiration from an 1809 fashion plate and pleated the back piece. I draped the over dress on a form and fitted it to my body. The sleeves on the overdress were modified from a La Mode Bagatelle pattern.
Both are 100% hand sewn. I’ve never worked with lace before, so this was a learning process, especially without using a lining to stabilize it. For both garments I used running back stitches, felling, and French seams. The underdress is lined in linen. The skirts are attached to the bodices with very small whipstitching, which I’ve seen on period pieces. Issues with mail, caused a delay in receiving the fabric for the underdress, so the overdress has polyester trim, which I will change. Aging would have made the ensemble more interesting but would have made it less usable for me so I couldn’t bring myself to stain it and otherwise add wear.
Beautiful dress! I can really see Miss Havisham wear this.
such a delicate work with there pleats. Congratulation!
Tiny pleats at the back are so satisfying! And the delicacy of the lace♡♡♡
100% Hand sewn AND you’ve never worked with lace before?! I almost don’t believe it, you look amazing! I must reiterate about those crisp and even pleats, but really that overdress has me drooling. You did a fantastic job!
Are. You. Serious. That is so incredibly beautiful. It looks like it got here in a time machine.
This is suuuuper pretty! Chantilly lace is my favourite dress lace, so beautiful. Also WELL DONE for sewing it by hand! 👏👏