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Magrat’s Green Dress

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Stephanie Murison

(click images to to enlarge)

Outline the story …

Magrat Garlick, from Terry Pratchett’s ‘Wyrd Sisters’, is the youngest in a coven of three witches. Often condescended by the elder two for her love of flashy ‘modern witchcraft’, she is depicted as a naive, self-conscious character, determined to be respected as a real witch. For me, the phrase ‘Once Upon a Time’ conjures images of knights in shining armour, valiantly rescuing fair maidens from stone towers. Although Magrat seems an unconventional protagonist for such a fairytale romance, her story fits this theme because her lover is later revealed to be the true heir to the throne, parodying the age-old trope of an unsuspecting maiden, falling for a prince in disguise.

I wanted to create a medieval inspired silhouette, to suit both the fantasy setting of the story, and the ‘Once Upon a Time’ theme. The garment is based on the design of a late 14th c. kirtle, with a fitted bodice and sleeves, and a wide, open neckline. It is inspired by Magrat’s outfit, described on pg. 103 of ‘Wyrd Sisters’ as “startlingly green.” The embroidery is a fantasy element, intended to reflect the character’s personality. The octogram, a magical symbol in Pratchett’s world, shows Magrat’s love of occult imagery. The sun and moon, and embellishments around the neckline which represent the changing seasons, were influenced by witchcraft’s close relationship to nature. Silver buttons on the sleeves were chosen to match the silver jewelry worn by the character.

Outline the construction…

The pattern for the bodice and sleeves was drafted using instructions from the book ‘The Medieval Tailors Assistant’. The dress is hand sewn and made of a green twill wool, with natural-coloured linen used as a lining for the bodice and around the sleeve cuffs to provide extra strength to these areas. The bodice and sleeves are sewn using back stitches in waxed linen thread, and four skirt gores attached at the front, back and sides, from the waist down, using running back stitch. The embroidery around the sleeve cuffs and neckline was stem stitched directly onto the fabric using black silk thread, also used for buttonholes at the sleeve cuffs and eyelets at the centre front opening. The lacing used to close the dress is made from the same black silk thread, using a finger loop braiding technique described in the book ‘Medieval Garments Reconstructed’ which is also demonstrated in a YouTube tutorial by Morgan Donner. This was only my second attempt at drafting a fitted bodice, and my first attempt at fitted sleeves, which I found particularly challenging. It took many mock ups and adjustments to correct the pattern. Watching the FR sleeve workshops and receiving fitting advice on the stitchlings group helped me to achieve a comfortable fit. Whilst I still have much room for improvement, I am pleased that this project challenged me to learn and try many new things, such as buttonholes, sewing with wool and designing my own embroidery pattern.

COMMENTS

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21 Comments

  1. Avatar Judith Kuegler on March 11, 2021 at 8:24 pm

    This dress is absolutely stunning! I love everything about it!

  2. Avatar Laura Holland on March 11, 2021 at 9:26 pm

    I loved Magrat, and this dress is worthy of her.

  3. Avatar Sadie on March 11, 2021 at 9:46 pm

    This is such a great interpretation of the character, and that embroidery is to die for!

  4. Avatar Cath Murray on March 11, 2021 at 11:42 pm

    So beautiful. I love the kirtle shape, colour and the embroidery is the icing on the cake.

  5. Avatar Floriane Descloquemant on March 12, 2021 at 11:11 am

    This is absolutely stunning, congratulations !!

  6. Kait on March 12, 2021 at 6:26 pm

    Wonderful! I love the embroidery!

    • Avatar Carla on March 13, 2021 at 9:03 pm

      Exquisite and charming piece of work! Love the embroidery and the story behind it. In so much awe of this design 😍

  7. Lauren T on March 12, 2021 at 8:50 pm

    I saw this and my jaw dropped, this is stunning – you’ve done an amazing job! Wow, I’m at a loss for words 👏

  8. Anasazi on March 13, 2021 at 4:15 am

    This dress is so lovely and finished just as beautiful inside and out 😍 I love the color and silhouette and your embroidery is an AMAZING accent that really makes this special. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful!

  9. Melanie on March 13, 2021 at 3:24 pm

    So gorgeous, and that is absolutely the most perfect green!

  10. Avatar Camille on March 14, 2021 at 12:27 pm

    I love the embroideries ! this dress is perfect, right between medieval history and pagan fun.

  11. Avatar Viktoria Cudkova on March 14, 2021 at 5:44 pm

    This dress is truly amazing. I love the simplicity of them and how they are so elegant! =)

  12. Avatar Laura Wemyss on March 14, 2021 at 7:59 pm

    Wow. Absolutely beautiful. I think you’ve done an incredible job. Both simple and complex at the same time. Very, very nice.

  13. JAYE SUDAR on March 15, 2021 at 4:16 am

    Lovely. You did a great job on this garment. The embroidery is spot on.

  14. Avatar Whats Sewing On on March 16, 2021 at 5:14 pm

    This dress is just goals for me. I neeeeed a green twill wool dress asap!! Beautiful!!

  15. Laurie on March 17, 2021 at 4:28 pm

    This is beautiful work! Fine embroidery. Lovely, pretty cuffs! Beautiful fabric choice, thread choice. Perfect buttons and very nice, neat lacing. Very well done, indeed.

  16. Avatar Lorraine Lysen on March 19, 2021 at 12:15 pm

    Beautiful work! That embroidery really makes the outfit, combined with nearly enough occult jewellery to jangle while you walk =D

  17. Avatar Giorgio Ronchi on March 24, 2021 at 11:45 pm

    It’s a wonderful dress and in a wonderful shade of green. Congratulations!

  18. Anna Östman on March 27, 2021 at 8:54 pm

    So beautiful. Magrat would be ecstatic.

  19. Avatar AnnaCatherine Sendgikoski on March 28, 2021 at 3:49 am

    I love this! It’s really very well done! I do love that embroidery work too. Thank you!

  20. Avatar Annick on March 30, 2021 at 6:40 am

    This really stands out. Everything fits together perfectly, from the colour to the pattern and the embroidered details and the pretty buttons. It’s so neat and sleek and yet swooshy, what a wonderful combination.

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