FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Lucia Mondella – The Betrothed
(click images to to enlarge)
Other Credits
http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/35155
Outline the story …
The origin of this costume came to me while looking at current global issues; health, economics, and politics. These current events have connections to history represented through Italian literature. Including my desire in making a 17th century boned bodice.
Inspiration comes in the form of a book "The Betrothed" (I Promessi Sposi) by Alessandro Manzoni, 1840. Focusing on a young couple by the names Renzo and Lucia in 1630’s Piedmont, the couple longs to be married but face many obstacles. Many of these obstacles are of the historic events that connect the past to our present, growing poverty and plague being the most forthcoming. The third hurdle being the political crisis taking form in the Spanish occupation of Italy.
Following our protagonist Lucia Mondella, who is represented in the costume and book as a young bride with a “warrior’s peasant modesty.” Physically she is described to have dark hair, dressed in a bodice with floral embroidery. Her character is an example par excellence of goodness and virtue, almost to a fault. She is an object of desire yet her devotion and innocence lead others to action. Unfortunately, a victim of all kinds of misfortunes yet she never lost her faith. Regarded as passive and defenceless she would still unleash great strength to protect her morals. This set of morals creates the expectation of an ideal Italian woman. Just as a Madonna is iconized, I created my image of her through 19th century eyes, in a 17th century silhouette.
Outline the construction…
To begin the journey, I started small by designing and hand embroidering a 17th century styled pocket, and quickly jumped into the big part. As my first hand/machine sewn boned bodice, I decided to go with the Corsets and Crinolines 1657-1660 pattern by Norah Waugh. This helped to shape my desired front closure, after modification to the boning pattern based on an extant garment from 17th Century Women's Dress Patterns 2. I corrected size and fit as needed, and added the skirts.
The bodice is made of 4 layers. A middle structure of cotton canvas with machine sewn boning channels, the rest stitched by hand. Including a draped silk embroidered fashion layer and a linen lining. Much of this was basted in place, then backstitched down the seams to the inner structure. All border seams were whipstitched and eyelets handsewn.
To finish the look, I created a petticoat using embroidered linen with a tie back closure, to be covered by a grey-blue linen twill dress that I cartridge pleated by hand to a cotton twill tape. As for the finishing touches, I chose garnet stones and golden filigree beads for my necklace, stringing them up and adding a historical closure, the earrings are matching with gold and red stone beads. Through the process of hand stitching, I learned to use appropriate needles and thread for my fabrics. Additionally, I learned ways to deal with my procrastination and lower my imposter syndrome by breaking down my projects and with new stitchling friends.
It looks so gorgeous and the fit is so good!
This is amazing!
That fabric is sooooo good ! And the bodice is incredible!
I love the swing of the skirt 🥰
You’re the best 🥰
Wow the fit and textiles are just great!
So beautiful. I love the stand-up neck.
Yes! Fight that procastrination with sewing! This looks amazing. I love it!
Great work! The textile is so beautiful and enhances your design.
This looks wonderful! It fits you so well. I especially like the flowers on the stays.
I love the bodice, it is beautiful and the floral pattern is so striking, and the embroidery on the pocket is lovely! I also like that you connected the historical events in the story you were inspired by, to the current events in the world today, well thought out!
Wow, I find this stunning. I love that fabric too! I love all of it! Thank you!