FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Lady of the Green Francaise
(click images to to enlarge)
Other Credits
Photographer: Eric Nielsen - @Everythingisswell on Instagram
Outline the story …
Entry inspired by The Silver Chair. Since childhood, I've been drawn to C.S. Lewis's descriptions of the terribly beautiful witches in Narnia, especially The Lady of the Green Kirtle (also known as The Queen of Underland) in her "fluttering dress of dazzling green." Lewis, more than any other author, captured what my childhood heart felt witches must be – magnificent, resplendent, terrifyingly striking women. For this competition, I decided to combine my fascination with The Queen of Underland and my plans for a robe a la francaise into one project, exploring what she would look like if she lived in 18th century Europe as The Lady of the Green Francaise. I had one main goal - to create a gown historically accurate enough to wear for 18th century events while incorporating elements that hint at her final transformation into a deadly serpent. I chose a solid color self-trimmed gown because I wanted the challenge of not being able to hide mistakes within patterned fabric or contrasting trim. I also felt the solid green would be her choice – captivating and deceptively simple. I started by exploring solid color self-trimmed extent gowns and settled on two (one from the V&A [Museum number T.77to B-1959] and one from the Kent State Museum of Fashion [KSUM 1983.1.8 ab]) to use as the inspiration for my gown. I chose these specifically for their serpentine trim layout and the unique pleating on the KSU gown trim that looked like scales.
Outline the construction…
The garment consists of a petticoat, stomacher and gown and is my first robe a la francaise. I used 11 yards of silk taffeta, linen lining, ivory silk for the upper petticoat back, and black silk for the train facing. Everything is hand-sewn with silk thread. I followed the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking and referenced Simplicity 8578 for my bodice front.
One of my first challenges was the pleated trim. I researched smocking styles, then used scrap fabric to test patterns and measurements. After finalizing my measurements through four mockups, I created a template to mark my fashion fabric trim.
I didn’t have instructions for making robings either, so I reverse engineered them based on photos of extents. I then fit the robings and shoulder straps to my extremely round shoulders. I expected to make significant modifications because my shoulders have caused problems before, and I was right.
My biggest challenge was that the fly trim I ordered got lost in the mail and I couldn’t find a suitable alternative. Initially I’d decided not to enter this competition without the trim because I felt it was so integral to the gown. But three days before the deadline friends convinced me to enter anyway, so I scrambled to apply all my pleated trim (I’d hoped to apply it all at once with the fly trim) and create additional trimmings to complete the gown.
Note: please overlook the white specks and wet hem in the photos/video – it’s snowing.
this is so perfect..the model is beautiful.
Thank you so much Mona!
Stunning!!
My girl is extremely gifted and talented!! Well Dunn!!
This is absolutely breathtaking. Love the color and the details in the trims!
Thank you Daphne!
Oh my goodness! Exquisite. You are so incredible gifted. Vivaldi?
Thank you so much!
What a beautiful gown, worn so well by the beautiful woman who designed and made it. Bravo!
Beautiful! Beautiful! Beautiful!
Always a huge fan of your beautiful work. This dress is exquisite!
So elegant. Beautiful color and details.
Thank you so much Erica! I’m humbled by your kindness <3
Amazeballs, and the colour is divine!
This is just BREATHTAKING. The fit is impeccable, and the scale pleating and little tassels just make it a feast for the eyes!
Thank you Kathleen! I have to thank extants for those details – I’d likely never have thought of them on my own!
Divine!
Great job, my dear! I didn’t know your backstory for this gown but, now that I do, I totally see it!
Thank you Naomi! I need to share the story over on Instagram!
Your friends were right to encourage you to enter. This gown is stunning (and not just because you used my favorite color)!
Thank you Eddie! You have good taste in color 😉 My favorite color is this shade of green too, which is why I think I was so drawn to the character and this particular fabric. It’s just so alive!
Incredible!
So many amazing details, beautifully done!
True perfection. Your attention to detail is spot on. Great work!
The dress is beautiful, especially the colour.
What can I say? I’m one of those friends so I’m glad we all convinced you. You are such an inspiration to me with your mad hand sewing skillz. I can’t wait to see what you do next!
Beautiful! I love all the textures of the trims, the influence of the snake definitely shows, not to mention, that is the most stunning shade of green! Well done!
YESSSS 👏👏👏 Wonderfully done!! 🥰 It’s absolutely gorgeous, even without the fly trim! I hope it shows up one day though </3