FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY

Divider_GoldMoth

Gold Dust Woman

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Annie Bartholomew

LINKS:

Outline the story …

For my design, I chose a story based on Alaska’s 1890s gold rush history, set in the wilderness of southeast Alaska where I reside. Inspired by Jack London’s short story “The Unexpected” I created a full-body undergarment for the story’s heroine, Edith Whittlesey, an English lady’s maid turned frontiers-woman whose quick wit and survival instincts help her overcome a murderous traitor in their midst.

Based on Annie Janess-Miller’s “Chemilette” design, I tried to imagine a garment worn by a practical woman, running a small mining camp and keeping a three-room log cabin for a crew of men, where she likely had little privacy. I don’t want to give away the story, but this passage describing Edith’s descent into madness truly resonated with me trying to complete a challenging sewing project during the COVID-19 pandemic: “She was filled with doubt as to whether she could hold herself together long enough to finish it. She felt incessant impulses to scream, to shriek, to collapse into the snow, to put her hands over her eyes and turn and run blindly away, into the forest, anywhere, away. It was only by a supreme effort of soul that she was able to keep upright and go on and do what she had to do.”

(hat, boots, and jewellery not included in submission)

Outline the construction…

After finding the Annie Jeness-Miller “Chimelette” design on the blog “Witness2Fashion” I searched Pinterest for a generic jumpsuit pattern to reference. Using proportions from both images, I created a custom pattern to fit my body. The piece is made from muslin, craft store lace, ribbon, and vintage 1860s Hudson Bay Company mussel shell buttons which may have been available in Alaska at that time of the story.

Without directions, it was a lot of learning by doing, silly mistakes, and trying and trying again. I had never sewed a button hole or used a curved ruler, and was mesmerized when I learned how simple piping is (and I’d been afraid of it for so long!) Sewing the darts was a bit of an adventure, and if I could do it again I’d reference more historic patterns and invest in a dress form.

We took pictures in my driveway after a winter storm and the light of day revealed all kinds of design flaws I hadn’t anticipated, but I’m so proud of it nonetheless. All of the purple ribbon is tied so that it’s adjustable in case I want to tighten or swap out the colors. When I was disappointed something didn’t turn out the way I expected, I tried to remember the home sewers who attempted these same garments a hundred years ago. Who couldn’t afford to waste supplies, and without the fancy equipment, and affordable materials so readily accessible now.

Chemilette: https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/tag/underwear-for-women-late-victorian-1880s-1890s/

COMMENTS

Divider_GoldMoth

13 Comments

  1. Avatar Grace Vorholt on March 11, 2021 at 10:44 pm

    I’m so psyched to see Alaska represented bc I’m moving there this summer! I LOVED Jack London growing up, this is such a wonderful representation of the settings I always wished I could jump into. Your detail work is beautiful, and your photos came out absolutely exquisite! You remind me of Michelle Dockery in Godless (just much snowier!)

    • Avatar Annie Bartholomew on March 28, 2021 at 3:47 am

      Thank you so much Grace! Was SO inspired by Michelle Dockery’s character in Godless! I almost tracked down a lever-action rifle for the shoot but figured it might be too distracting…

      Completely lucked out that the weather coincided with the project deadline! I’m sure the neighbors thought we were crazy, but it was worth it.

      So excited you’re moving to Alaska!! What part? My email is [email protected] if you want to connect.

  2. Avatar Leora Wambach on March 13, 2021 at 7:04 am

    The lace you chose is so perfect!

  3. Avatar Manon L'Hostis on March 14, 2021 at 1:44 pm

    So many tiny details! The lace looks lovely❤

  4. Kitty Mortensen Kitty Mortensen on March 15, 2021 at 10:57 pm

    This is breathtaking! Your garment, the details, the images and your text- everything seems to draw me in. Gorgeous! And I’m super envious on your hat- its pretty!

    • Avatar Annie Bartholomew on March 28, 2021 at 4:24 am

      Awwww thank you Kitty! It’s a Stetson “Amish” hat that I bought for my boyfriend, but have commandeered from time to time. Thank you so much for your words of encouragement. Can’t wait to wear it at cabin parties (or out on the town!) once it’s safe again!

  5. Avatar Wendy on March 25, 2021 at 6:52 pm

    Practical, modest, and dainty – all spot on. Mistakes and iteration are just part of being creative, like a long experiment, and it is all good. Your results are lovely!

    • Avatar Annie Bartholomew on March 28, 2021 at 4:30 am

      Thank you so much Wendy! Appreciate all your compliments and encouragement! Practical, modest & dainty are what I go for!!

  6. Avatar AnnaCatherine Sendgikoski on March 26, 2021 at 9:28 pm

    Oh my….this is simply beautiful! very well done. Thank you!

  7. Avatar Peta Pendlebury on March 29, 2021 at 6:46 pm

    Simple and lovely. I too am a huge fan of piping and love this on yours. I feel it just elevates a garment so. Congratulations on overcoming your challenges and for being brave enough to take outdoor photos in so little clothing!

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.