FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Finalist
Dark Lady Alice
(click images to to enlarge)
Other Credits
Photo: https://www.instagram.com/matthewpandolfe/ Model: https://www.instagram.com/itssabrinapretty/ Hair: https://www.instagram.com/bryangonzalezhair/
Outline the story …
Hawthorne’s "House of the Seven Gables" tells the foredoomed tale of the Pyncheon lineage and the inhabitants of the foreboding late 17th-century manor. Though brief in the novel's context, Alice Pyncheon's story has always been a source of inspiration. She was a haughty beauty raised in the courts of Europe and later brought back to the Americas. “If ever there was a lady born, and set apart from the world’s vulgar mass by a certain gentle and cold stateliness, it was this very Alice Pyncheon”. However, she was used as a pawn in her greedy father’s scheming and forced into hypnotic submission by one of his adversaries, Matthew Maule II. After suffering Maule’s imprecation, Alice wanders into the snow wearing only a silken evening gown, and ultimately catches pneumonia and dies. The ill-fate that befell her was not one of her making, nor worthy of her majesty, and so is doomed to haunt the Seven Gables for eternity. I wanted to create a gown evocative of Alice's spirit and the character of the house itself. The result is a fusion of the two periods of dress – the late 1680s when the manor was built, and the 1730s when Alice resided there. The off the shoulder bodice with large bell sleeves is reminiscent of late 17th century court-wear, while the bell shape hoops are of 1730s fashion. The heavy black dress represents the ominous house and the oppression Alice suffered, while the soft light-colored undergarments embody Alice's delicate beauty.
Outline the construction…
Each layer of Alice’s costume was hand-sewn using 18th-century techniques including historically accurate fabrications, stitches, and structures. I constructed the open back panniers using hand-shaped cane reed and metal ribs, which were covered in silk taffeta and hand-whipped to each tier. The top tier is padded with wool wadding and finished with cotton grosgrain ribbon drawstring. The silk taffeta petticoat is based on a 1760's original from the Met Museum’s collection. The dress consists of silk cotton velvet covering a fully boned bodice. The skirt is lined in silk taffeta, for structure more than accuracy. Antique Chantilly and needle lace are pinned to the bodice and chemise.
As this was my first time entirely hand-sewing a dress of this period, I faced some challenges. The center of the bodice was collapsing, so with the help of the mentors, I added bust rails and a stay strip to create structure that was not part of my original design. I did not account for the bulk of the pleated velvet in my skirt pattern, so I had to reconstruct the panels after the first attempt of the skirt. I used a historical technique to level the hem that I found in The Tudor Tailor. I also relied on Patterns of Fashion 5, Bernadette Banner’s pirate shirt tutorial, the Foundations Revealed Stays course, as well as Art and Fashion plates from the Met to help inform my construction and design.
I’m obsessed! This is beyond divinity – so beautiful and incredibly constructed. It was such fun following along watching you construct this by hand. A superb job done indeed!
Thank you ❤️
Gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous!!!! Loved the videos and the amazingly done photos. Bravo!!
Thank you Julie! Yes the photos are chefs kid my photographer was beyond talented.
You have outdone yourself Theodore! Your craftsmanship is incredible and the design of your characters gown is breathtaking.
I missed this comment! Thank you so much Lowana. A compliment like this from someone of your expertise is truly humbling ❤️❤️
Absolutely stunning!! Your work and talent never ceases to amaze me. It is truly inspired!
Thank you!!! ❤️
I LOVE this, the execution is immaculate. Wow. Just wow.
🤗 thank you that means so much!
Just a wow piece. So stunning. Bravo!!!!!
Thank you I’m happy I did it, almost didn’t happen 😬
Perfection. The construction and fit are just beautiful.
Thank you!
Bewitching… clean, elegant, evocative, sensual. You have ticked ALL the boxes (and maybe some more). Kx
Lol thank you! This comment is giving me all the feels!
A standing ovation!!! Exquisite. The velvet pleating is so rich and elegant. Her chemise so delicate. The panniers are outstanding. BRAVO!!! S o very well done!
Thank you carol!!! ❤️
Theodore! I was already loving it from the images- but the closer I get to the garment the more gorgeous it gets! Everything is gorgeous and their own, and then they just lift each other up to this stunning outfit! marvellous
Thank you Kitty! I really appreciate the time you took to really look close. ❤️
Wow amazing work with sewing
Thank you Meri!
Glorious!
Gorgeous, and so well thought through. I love it!
Thanks ☺️
Absolutely gorgeous! All that hand sewing must have taken forever. I remember seeing some of your work in progress photos on instagram and can’t wait to see the ‘making of’ video!
Thanks Maria! The video is now up on Ted The Tailor Youtube.
I really want to add another comment regarding the model: Theodore, you have created a garment that has enhanced and elevated femininity to a new height, and your model feels DIVINE! I can really feel (and see) the love and joy in these images. A big shoutout to her… label me a fan!
Thank you so much for these kind words. I have forwarded your compliments to the model as well ❤️
You can just feel the love of historical costuming. She looks like she has stepped right out of a time machine! Excellent attention to details, and the whole look is very clean
Thank you, Mandy! I just really wanted to show something different for the 18th century in this piece. Especially for this character with was so dark.
Really beautiful Theodore. Totally captivated by the story and what you have achieved here – bravo!
Thank you Caroline that means a lot ❤️
This is so dramatic, so luxurious, and your interpretation of the story is beautiful! Every little detail is exquisite.
Thank you Wendy, there was a lot of “is it enough” when designing and making it. It’s really encouraging to hear you and others are enjoying the details.
Beautiful! You should be very proud!
Thank you I am. It still blows my mind people want to see my work.
Every layer is so skilfully made and beautiful, I feel like I’m looking at a painting
Thank you so much ☺️
Gorgeous! I really like this one. It’s so rich.
Thanks so much ❤️
Beautiful work, so elegant!
Thanks!
Brilliant job, Theodore! She looks like a painting come to life. your dedication to the techniques is inspiring and I want to wrap your hands in bubble wrap after the work you put them through!
Lol thank you Maeri! And thank you for your support in the last stretch!
Yay for entirely hand sewn! Very very beautiful work! It’s already been said, but “straight out of a painting” immediately comes to mind! Congratulations on this stunning achievement!
Thank you! that comment never gets old, it’s always been a goal of mine ❤️
Omg!!!😍 Can I borrow some of your elegance for my next photo shoot?! Seriously Gorgeous ensemble ❤️✂️
Lol! Im sending elegant vibes your way ❤️
Yay!!❤️
wonderful job.
My mind is FILLED with four letter words right now haha, I am in awe!! Everything hand sewn, very impressive. This is soo beautifully done, and I love the little bow in the back^^
Wondering through the dark hallways of an old castle, one comes upon the portrait of a hauntingly beautiful lady, her white shoulders emerging from a sea of black velvet as if trying to escape.
This dress is mesmerising and I cannot fathom the amount of work that went into it. It’s a dream, the perfect embodiment of the story.