FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Aurora, Princess of the Dawn
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Outline the story …
The fabrics’ colors, patterns, and quantities were the prime drivers for this outfit’s creation. I had collected these fabrics over the course of several years, and over time pinned them in various iterations on my dress form. I loved the combination of the blue/gold/bronze/cream colors and the contrasting floral patterns. The limitation imposed by the quantities of each fabric determined how each could be used since (except for the chemise and the jacquard trim) all pieces were 1.5m-or-less remnants, fat quarters, or even smaller scraps. When the theme of “Into Another World” was announced, I decided to use these fabrics to create my own version of the Aurora from the Sleeping Beauty fairy tales, focusing on the “dawn” meaning of her name through the color scheme of cream, light blues, and gold/bronze. I designed her “look” to follow the “traditional” European fairy tale princess silhouette: fitted bodice, flowing sleeves, and a long skirt partially covered by an overskirt. My goal was to give a general feel of an historical garment through the layering and silhouette, particularly referencing elements of the European Renaissance: bell sleeves, skirt shape, belt-sash, mix-and-match of patterns, and visible puffed chemise. The fantasy element came from the fabrics themselves (e.g., embroidery, woven patterns, composition), how they were used (e.g., organza as an overskirt, chiffon as a chemise), the components together (e.g., modern corset-like bodice, chemise), and my original design of the anachronistic “minimalist spencer jacket” worn over the bodice.
Outline the construction…
I hand sewed every piece of this outfit. I drafted each based on my measurements without using patterns. The chiffon chemise is two bell-sleeves sewn raglan-style to the body. The petticoat is a ¾-circle skirt made with two different embroidered taffetas (front and back faces), is open at the sides at the waistband, and ties with ribbons. The unlined overskirts (blue taffeta; embroidered organza) tie with drawstrings under the bodice. The bell sleeves are half-circles, bag-lined, and hold to the arm with elastic bands within satin ribbon casing (covered by the separate jacquard arm bands). I drafted the bodice using my measurements, mocking it up with thin cardboard for the torso and scrap fabric for the cups. I sewed channels for the boning to only one face of the bodice (gold tapestry fabric) so the other face (bronze brocade) could appear smooth. A single piece of 12-gauge aluminum wire provides support along the outside edges and bottom of the cups. I used narrow pliers to make and expand the lacing holes without cutting the fabric, then hand finished them. I pattern-matched the cups for each face of the bodice and of the spencer. The design of the spencer was the most difficult design element since I wanted to incorporate a choker and cap-like sleeves. One face of the spencer uses scraps of the sleeves’ brocade and velvet; the other uses scraps of different embroidered silks and velvet, and jacquard trim. The sash is a single hemmed strip of jacquard trim.
I absolutely lsee tge dawn in your colour scheme it’s lovely.
I love this. I too enjoy the challenge of working with found fabrics and piercing together bits of what you have. It is so much more interesting than just working with long lengths of yardage.