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Revolution Grrrl Style 1890s!
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
My design inspiration was Tess from "The Future of Another Timeline" by Annalee Newitz. In this book, there have always been time machines on Earth and the timeline is constantly behind changed. Tess is a historian who goes on research trips back in time to study, primarily, the 1890s. She is also part of a group who work to change the timeline to improve the lives of women, and are in an edit war with a group of misogynists who are trying to roll back women’s rights. In particular, in the book she is working towards making abortion legal in the US. Tess was also involved in the Riot Grrrl scene as a teenager and this continues to inform her lids as an adult, even time traveling back to a show.
My idea was for Tess when she is in the current time, marrying her passions in an 1890s style Riot Grrrl denim jacket. The base silhouette of an 1890s jacket, but with a more modern fabric choice and the embellishments of the DIY scene of the 1990s. I wanted to make patches for 2 of the riot grrrl bands Tess likes in the book: Grape Ape and Million Eyes, which would be especially precious to her after accidentally erasing them from the timeline. I was also inspired by a patch from one of London Roller Derby’s home teams, the ‘Sufrajets’, which references slightly the wrong era, but fit with the aesthetic I wanted to capture.
Outline the construction…
Having made less than a handful garments in the past, mostly from stretchy material, this project was a lot of firsts for me, first time setting puffed sleeves, first time sewing anything with a lining, first time making outerwear, first time making mockups! I used the Truly Victorian Ripple Bodice pattern. I found Angela Clayton’s youtube videos ‘Making an 1890's Sporting Jacket’ to be incredibly useful when I got confused or had purposefully deviated from the pattern. I mostly followed the pattern, but changed the closure, left out the boning and slightly altered the armholes.
My troubles started when I accidentally ordered stretch denim and couldn’t afford to replace the fabric, I tried to get around this issue via judicious use of fusible interfacing. For the closure I added in D-ring fastened straps to add a more punk like aesthetic. As the hem was incredibly curvy, I made a facing from the bottom of the pattern and tacked this to the interior to finish the edge. To emphasise the DIY aesthetic, aside from the main and lining fabric everything else was made from or embellished with things already in my house. I unfortunately didn’t have enough lining material to extend onto the lapels so it wasn’t visible from the outside as I’d initially planned, so I added some of this material to the outside tail, and made a badge using it. I made 4 patches for the jacket, based on Tess' character, including for 2 bands from the book.
Your jacket is awesome! It’s such a great idea to mix the silhouette of the 1890s with the bright patches in the back.
PUNK! yes! Those sleeves!
Just, wow! I want one. Brilliantly designed and executed. Best of luck x
This is just fantastic! So creative – I love it!
Love this, super creative and makes you think! Now I want to read that book!
Ahhhh! I absolutely love this book, and you captured Tess perfectly! Not to mention, you’ve created a jacket that would be aesthetically be perfectly at home at both a punk show and a couture runway show. Amazing work!
Great mix of the 1980’s 1990’s and 1890’s ! I need to read this book!
Adding another book to my to read list so thanks for that. This is fabulous! I love this jacket and it so clearly denotes the character you described, I can’t wait to go read this book now!
Absolutely fabulous! I need that for my wardrobe.
This is just all around fabulous!! I love the sleeves and the skirt and all the patches. Wonderful!! GO YOU!!!
Wow I love this jacket, such a style and shape ! And I love your careful choice of embellishment, gives it such a lovely twist ! Wonderful work !
This is so cool! I love all the details you put into it. It really captures the times. Beautiful shape and design and looks like it fits perfectly! It is awesome!
This mashup! These fabrics! Those SLEEVES! I’m in love.
This is great! I love its progressive message
Wow, such a nice design. Your construction is very nice. I really like this! Thank you!
I love how you captured the essence of this feminist, time-travelling character in the design, so cleverly done, and I adore all the patches and those sleeves!
Love the sleeves!
Agh! Time- travel, feminism and couture! Spectacular interpretation and those sleeeeeves! Boom! Adding the book to my reading list – thank you kindly! 🙂
You’re speaking my language here like whoa
I am so here for this! Fantastic work and research.
I love how you managed to marry two completely different eras into one cohesive look! Great job