FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Death’s Granddaughter
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
Despite seeming frivolous in these crazy times, this costume was born out of practical desires. First, I wanted something challenging and inspiring in the New Year. Second, it needed to be something I might actually wear (as an opera singer a well-fitted corset is surprisingly useful. The work may not be stable, but the wardrobe is fun!). Lastly, I wanted to use stash fabric and avoid buying new. I had some beautiful black-on-black jacquard I had been saving for a special gown. This seemed like the perfect moment.
With black-on-black in mind, I chose from the work of one of my favourite authors, Terry Pratchett, and made something for Susan Sto-Helit, an outfit for tidying up after her rascally grandfather, Death. Pratchett’s "Discworld" is a fantasy world with a striking resemblance to our own, so I wanted a dress that evoked mid-Victorian fashion- with a few twists. Susan is such a fun character, dry, clever and very stubborn. She becomes a governess but swears “if she ever found herself dancing on rooftops with chimney sweeps, she’d beat herself with her own umbrella.”
Of course, I had never made a corset before. I threw myself in the deep end with a less-than-simple pattern, I wildly underestimated how much time it would all take and didn’t get to the jacquard overdress in the end. No regrets. I couldn’t be prouder of what I’ve achieved and that overdress will be there waiting, now with the perfect foundation garments!
Outline the construction…
I started with the corset, a very good place to start. I used the 1873 pattern from Norah Waugh’s 'Corsets and Crinolines' and Cathy Hay’s drafting tutorial. I knew this would be involved but I still underestimated it. After three days spread out with coloured pens, rulers and old wrapping paper over my in-laws’ dining table at Christmas, a perfect me-sized pattern was born. Well, almost perfect.
One toile later, I’d taken out some hip width, moved a bust gore, added depth at the bust and lost length at the hip, dipped the centre-front and added height to the side. It may not be historically accurate but it’s me-accurate. Fitting my large bust had me stumped for a while. I know I have a lot left to learn, but I’m really proud of it.
It’s constructed of three layers. A slub silk outer over a densely-woven cotton foundation, and lined with soft cotton twill. I used stash cotton yarn for the cording (how fun and pretty is cording?!?!?) and stash twill tape for a waist-stay. The boning is steel (harvested from an old costume) and synthetic whalebone. Each bone is flossed on both ends in black. The centre-front bones are flossed with a small Life-timer/hourglass design in bright blue, the colour of Death’s eyes.
For the matching slip, I used a heavily-modified 1950s pattern and a viscose satin, cut all on the bias for slink and shine. The day before the shoot I whipped up a Regency-style cloak.
I’m such a fan of Susan Sto-Helit and her love for Logic (as well as her cheeky bony grandfather, IMHO the best of all Discworld characters)! I’m glad somebody picked her up to bring her to luge.
Great job on your first ever corset, and I just LOVE the embroidered hourglass reference.
Awesome idées.
The hourglass flossing! What a stroke of genius!
I was hoping someone would represent Susan, and I think you did a marvellous job. Well done on jumping into that deep end, you really pulled it off.
So elegant! And the look fits you so well, great job♡
This is wonderful! Very Susan!
Susan is such a great character and I think you pulled off a great recreation of her. The flossing hour glass design was a perfect touch.
It looks as though you nailed the fit! Congratulations. And the cording really is effective!
This is a beautiful corset! The shaped you achieved is gorgeous and suits you so well! I also love the addition of the hourglass design in the flossing, perfect for the character! Well done!
Came for the Susan, stayed for how that viscose slip moves OMG.
Beautiful job– nearly a Madame X a la John Singer Sargent!