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Ella Enchanted: 17th Century Edition
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
"Ella Enchanted" by Gail Carson Levine is a Cinderella story. Ella is "gifted"/cursed with obedience by the misguided fairy Lucinda. I have read this story hundreds of times, and I still hold my breath during the final brave moments of Ella's emancipation when she finally breaks her curse. These stories never leave you.
For “the secret of the Great Stories is that they have no secrets. The Great Stories are the ones you have heard and want to hear again… They are as familiar as the house you live in… You know how they end, yet you listen as though you don’t… And yet you want to know again. That is their mystery and their magic.” ―Arundhati Roy
Ella's story has two themes that inspired me: The first is purple (and lilacs), which is the overpowering colour of her room at finishing school, as well as the strong scent which precedes Lucinda's appearances. The second is the natural world. All of Ella's encounters with benevolent fantasy creatures involve a respect for the earth, from the dwarves who love digging, to the elves who love green things, and the giants who farm the land.
I also wanted to use the natural and the floral to pay homage to the fantastical classic illustrations of fairy tales. Because I love them, and because Ella's most precious possession is a book which shows her pictures and tells her stories.
Ella is as steeped in fairy tales as she is one herself.
Outline the construction…
I searched the text for clues that would point me in the direction of a time period. Not entirely accurate because it is a fantasy novel, but I settled on the 17th century due to the descriptions of narrow waists, stays, doublets, and several dances which are mentioned. This design is adapted from the Patterns of Fashion 5, design #9: Smooth Covered Stays with Sleeves.
After sizing up the pattern, I adjusted it for my measurements. The book itself was very useful, as were several FR articles regarding 17th Century Dress and hair/makeup, especially those of Izabella Pitcher, whose banquet gown tutorial was a key support. The Dutch Masters helped with portraiture reference.
Every part of this garment was hand sewn. The lining layers are linen, boned with synthetic whalebone. The "pasteboard" reinforcement in the sleeves was achieved by manipulating and cutting the cardboard backing of a sketchbook. The fashion fabric is silk taffeta which was re-dyed from its original red, formerly a set of curtains. The lining of the curtains became the underpetticoat. As the PoF5 book didn't include a skirt pattern, I adapted a self-drafted skirt pattern, designed for use over a victorian cage-crinoline. This allowed the skirt to have a gentle train, and was cartridge-pleated for volume.
The accessories were all handmade. The tiara is wire. The mask is a plaster cast covered with clay foam. The flowers are either hand-sculpted or formed from molds, all from clay foam. Everything is painted with acrylic and pearl pigments.
Liz you did so beautifully. I love it!
I’ve loved your YouTube videos on making this amazing costume. You’re so imaginative (and a natural on camera by the way; so genuine and warm). Beautiful work… and I am always thrilled when I see a new video from you uploaded.
I especially adore the back of the sleeves on your bodice, I’m currently re-reading this book and Ella just arrived at boarding school.. I will have to imagine this dress in the story now!
you’ve got taste, you’ve got style, and you’re thoughtful about both. i suspect there’s nothing you can’t do if you decide it interests you. i really like your project. and i have gotten such a kick out of watching your process videos! hooray! and good luck (from craftyroo/icarus)
Powerful story – powerful portrayal here. Fantastic work, Liz.
The whole outfit is lovely. You did a beautiful interpretation and gave it your own spin as well. Once again, lovely work.
I love it! Looks great!
This is Stunning work. Well done!
The attention to detail is superb. From overdyeing the fabric to the pattern drafting from PoF5 to sculpting the mask and headdress. Simply fabulous. The fact the entire garment is hand-sewn is spectacular.
Congratulations on the design and execution.
– Cathy (w/o accidently Steve Z), Ottawa/Bytown
The whole thing is amazing, the shape of the stays is so beautiful, and the accessories are just the perfect final touch !