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Lady Hatter

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Anna Soucy

(click images to to enlarge)

Outline the story …

I've been interested in historical dress and learning to sew for a while and when I learned the theme of this year I knew I had to do it inspired by one of my favorite books, "Alice's Adventures in Wonderland," by Lewis Carroll. I was thinking of doing Alice in a historically accurate 1860s gown, but I decided to do the Mad Hatter in 1887 instead as he is one of my favorite characters (and everyone has been going mad for the bustles). I sat down and reread the book and took note of every time he was illustrated (only 5 times to my dismay,) then I drew up my own design. I was originally planning on staying a bit more true to his shirt waist and cravat, but I thought it would tie too much masculinity in, so I used the pattern on my shirtwaist instead. My hat was originally designed as a short cap with a wider brim, but I thought it strayed to far from his iconic tall hat.

My mother was a big part of my inspiration as she sews a lot of costumes for our local theater company, although she gave me advice here and there when I asked, every stitch is my own. I was very scared to start this project, as previously to starting I had only sewn one simple circle skirt. I started from the under most garments, and worked my way out.

Outline the construction…

Most of my undergarments are made of white muslin my mother already had. I didn't know how to use a machine so I hand sewed up until my overcoat. I started with a pair of combinations, which I later trashed, and made TV102 chemise and drawers. I drafted my corset pattern and made 7 mock-ups to ensure perfect fit, then my bustle cage, bum pad, and petticoat, for which I used Prior Attires instructions. I used TV261 4 gore underskirt with pleats in the back, I feel like the hatter is a practical person and wouldn't want the fuss of an overskirt (also added a large pocket of course).

I dyed my blouse fabric from the white muslin using acrylic paints, water, and salt. I drew every dot on using a fabric marker. I drafted the pattern using "The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting" and altered to my liking, and I used the same book to draft my waistcoat. I was nervous to tailor for the first time, but it turned out alright. The horsehair canvas in the collar and lapel turned out good but I placed the shoulder padding too low, and it makes the bust sit funny and wrinkle slightly. I decided last minute that it needed a watchpocket so I made my first welt pocket witch turned out great I used TV560 for my overcoat and used tailors canvas in the collar and lapel, but it turned out bulky and I'll omit batting there next time.

COMMENTS

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16 Comments

  1. Avatar Samanthalovestosew on March 11, 2021 at 11:27 pm

    What a fantastic idea for a costume! You’ve put in so much work and you and your costume look wonderful.

  2. Avatar Inge Sahuleka on March 12, 2021 at 7:24 am

    Wonderful. Nice to see more welt-pocket first times here 🙂

    • Avatar Anna on April 1, 2021 at 4:20 am

      thank you! i only made one practice one before this XD

  3. Avatar Anne on March 12, 2021 at 10:00 pm

    Oh, the cuffs!!! And have you seen the button holes…. delicious!!!

    • Avatar Anna on April 1, 2021 at 4:21 am

      thank you!!!! i was proud of the neat gathers and button holes <3

  4. Sophia Khan Sophia Khan on March 14, 2021 at 1:08 am

    This is so fun! I love the mixed prints.

  5. Avatar Laura Wemyss on March 14, 2021 at 9:47 pm

    You have used some interesting work-arounds to find solutions to challenges. I would not have considered using an acrylic paint mixture to dye fabric for a blouse, but it looks to have turned out tremendously well! The outfit looks great!

    • Avatar Anna on April 1, 2021 at 4:21 am

      thank you! still hasent faded at all or anything!

  6. Avatar Kristina on March 17, 2021 at 2:24 pm

    I would never guess this is your second sewing project. This is magnificent!

    • Avatar Anna on April 1, 2021 at 4:22 am

      thank you! i worked really hard!

  7. Laurie on March 17, 2021 at 4:13 pm

    Well done! Looks great. Lovely suit and impressive coat!

    • Avatar Anna on April 1, 2021 at 4:24 am

      thank you! ive worn the coat several times out!

  8. Avatar AnnaCatherine Sendgikoski on March 27, 2021 at 4:16 am

    Oh, this is really lovely! I like it! Thank you!

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