FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Lirael’s Rememberancer Dress
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
I used Lirael from the Old Kingdom series by Garth Nix as my inspiration for this dress. Lirael is born into a matriarchal clan of seers (the Clayr), but never develops her ability to see the future. To distract her and keep her busy, the clan elders give her a job in the library. Through her work in the library, she discovers that she is actually a Rememberancer, and also the Abhorsen-in-waiting. The Abhorsen is the one necromancer in the kingdom who uses their skills and magic to return the Dead to rest. Because Lirael is half Abhorsen and half Clayr she can see into the past instead of the future. Adventures ensue, and Lirael finds her place in the world.
For this outfit, I took inspirations from several different elements of the story and wove them into the outfit I think Lirael would wear after the events of the series. Time moves differently in the Old Kingdom vs. the rest of the world, and while the Old Kingdom is coming out of a Dark Ages-esque period everyone else is in an alternate history 1928. I used medieval kirtle and shift construction for most of the dress, and added 1920s details like the hem length and Peter Pan collar. The main dress is red to pay homage to Lirael's Librarian uniform (a red waistcoat), while the gores in the front of the skirt are based on her heraldry (black with silver keys for Abhorsen, and Blue with stars for Clayr.)
Outline the construction…
I relied on tutorials from Morgan Donner, Profound Decisions, Diane Deziel, Abby Cox, and Bernadette Banner for much of this project.
As a plus-sized person who is also very short, I knew I wanted to draft my own pattern despite this being my second garment ever. I constructed the main dress out of a midweight wool twill (she lives in a glacier after all) and cotton canvas for bodice lining. I flatlined all the pieces and finished the neckline, fronts, and armholes by hand. I marked eyelets for spiral lacing and hand sewed them using black silk thread for contrast and bling.
For the embroidered skirt panels, I used lightweight wool (mixing it with a heavier weight was a mistake I won't be making again!) and metallic embroidery floss. I really wanted to use satin stitch and fill in the keys, but part of learning was discovering that metallic thread is the wrong thing for that, so instead I backstitched the outlines.
The shift is black linen with cotton broadcloth as the collar lining and facing. I found I like triangle gores on the sleeves rather than a square gore in the armpit fit-wise.
The light blue cord on the shift collar and the black lacing in my bodice are hand-braided using the fingerloop method from heavy cotton thread I hand sewed the cord to the collar. The shift cuffs are finished with machine embroidery and the dress is machine hemmed except for the front panels done by hand.
I just finished re-reading this series! Love the inspiration, and love your ‘charter mark’!
Thanks! That Charter Mark ended up tied with the pattern as the part of the outfit I re-did the most, so I’m glad it “reads” well!
The moment I saw the embroidery I knew Exactly what you were referencing! Such a beautiful job & I love your thoughts for meshing medieval with 1920s fashion – it makes perfect sense 🙂
I am not familiar with this book but I’m blown away that this is only your second garment AND you drafted the pattern yourself. Amazing. I love the details, especially the embroidery. A pleasure to look at!
I don’t know the books, but I am impressed by your thoughts about how to put the dress together. One can picture your Lirael and you look beautiful in the dress. I like the picture with that huge book “mountain”. 😉
I am such a simp for hand done eyelets. Bloody well done 👏🏼👏🏼
I’m so impressed with the melding of medieval and 1920s elements. And the hint of magic and mystery in that starry pleat captures the imagination!
Well done! Very cute little dress, I love the marriage of medieval and 1920’s!
Garth Nix is a favorite around here, and I love your interpretation. The embroidery is my favorite part. Lovely work!
I love me some great embroidery! Wow, yours is so well thought out and gorgeous! I love how well thought out this outfit is! Very well done! Thank you!
This is a favorite series and I love, love, love the concept here. Good job!
You did such a wonderful job with your entry. I can tell you put a lot of thought into the design of your garment and I really appreciate the details in your creation. Well done!