FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Lirael’s Waistcoat
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
For my entry I chose Lirael’s Second Assistant Librarian Waistcoat from Lirael, the second book of the Abhorsen Trilogy by Garth Nix. The waistcoat is part of the uniform of the Great Library of the Clayr, a society of clairvoyant women who live in a glacier on the highest mountain of the Old Kingdom. Lirael is given the job of librarian when she is found to be depressed on her 14th birthday because of her lack of clairvoyant powers.
The waistcoat is described as being made of canvas covered in silk. It is loose fitting, has big pockets and a whistle attached to the lapel. Over the waistcoat Lirael wears a belt and dagger. It has buttons that become detached while squeezing through a doorway.
Since I only want to make garments that I will want to wear with my everyday wardrobe. I decided to make my interpretation out of poly-silk and canvas. I chose dupioni for the fashion fabric and sateen georgette for the lining. As this was my first tailoring project I decided not to draft my own pattern. I used the Sienna Maker Jacket pattern from Closet Core Patterns and made a mock-up up to test the fit and style. I altered the pattern to remove the sleeves and inside pocket, made the armhole tighter to the armpit and narrower on the shoulder and drafted a cap sleeve and armhole facing.
Outline the construction…
I started with assembling the pockets, then top stitched them to the front pieces. The front left piece also has a belt vent. Then I sewed the body pieces together. All the seam allowances were whip stitched down to the interlining. I attached the under collar to the neckline of the main pieces. I assembled the belt and D ring strap and basted these in place on the front edges. Next I assembled the facing pieces and sewed black bias binding down the inner edge. I sewed the facing on to the front pieces and collar and clipped the corners so they can be turned out to a point. For the sleeves I cut the fabric on the fold so that the fold is at the bottom of the sleeve and the canvas is sandwiched in between. I sewed the sleeve into the armhole by hand. The last task on the body was to sew on a pad of wadding in the front collarbone area to give that area a better shape when worn. For the lining I cut the back piece on the fold and used the extra width from the seam allowances in the back pleat. I sewed the lining pieces together and stitched the lining to the interlining. For the hem I folded the edge up and whipped it down to to the interlining. I felled the facings down. Lastly I added crows foot stitches to the back vent and belt vent.
Love the small embroidered details! Really adds to the final finish! Beautiful!
Lirael Twin! I like your version, it looks like something I would wear a lot, and the fit you got looks great
The lapels turned out amazing! I’m also suffering from pocket envy. Your waistcoat is stunning
This pattern looks quite complex, and you nailed it! It looks great on you♡
I love your detail stitches (especially the crowsfoot stitches and the contrast lining. It sounds to be a very fitting interpretation of the character!
The lapels are beautiful! I love that red colour and the extra length in the waistcoat, such a great design and lovely fit!