FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Very Rational Underwear
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
Nan Killion is a psychic investigator who works alongside Sherlock Holmes in Mercedes Lackey’s Elemental Masters series. Nan always wears Women's Rational Dress, and her stories are set in the 1890s. I thought Rational Dress would be identifiable to a casual observer, but actually the major changes were to the underwear. When Annie Jenness-Miller designed her system of Rational Dress in 1888, she focused on streamlining the layers of undergarments to allow for better movement while still wearing fashionable gowns. Jenness-Miller recommended that women wear a knit "union suit" for warmth, followed by a "chemilette" (replacing the chemise and drawers), a "model bodice" (replacing the corset), and "Turkish leglettes" (replacing the layers of petticoats).
I decided to go with a "summer" version which starts with the chemilette. “Chemilette” seems to be another name for late Victorian combinations, like the thick linen ones Nan wears in Home From the Sea. The leglettes appear to be wide-legged trousers gathered onto a pointed yoke, but I suspect that they also have an open crotch for practicality.
The term "model bodice" never caught on, but corset replacements were popular. I found advertisements and extant garments described as "waists," "corset waists," "bicycle waists," "health corsets," "sport corsets," and similar. The ones for athletic pursuits often incorporate elastic gussets for ease of movement. Nan rarely rides a bicycle or plays sports, but she has a tendency to get involved in sword fights with supernatural beings, so an elasticized athletic waist would be her style.
Outline the construction…
The athletic waist is modified from a Truly Victorian corset pattern. The waist is double layered with a welted construction. The outer layer is cotton coutil, and the inner layer is cotton drill.
Rather than being cut, the buttonholes are formed from flattened tubes of coutil placed next to each other with the folded edges forming the sides of the buttonholes. The buttons are attached with ¼” twill tape which is secured in the welt seam. The waist is corded with cotton string, and twill tape forms channels for removable zip-tie boning on either side of the back lacing. Before construction, ¾” woven elastic was basted flat onto the side panels. Afterwards, the fabric of these panels was cut in half, and the cut edges were turned in and topstitched next to the fold. The top and bottom edges of the waist are bound with twill tape. The coutil straps were finished separately with a muslin lining and pieces of ¾” elastic for ease of movement.
The chemilette is made of 6.8 oz linen following the Truly Victorian combinations pattern. I replaced the leg band with ruffles, and all the seams are faced or flat felled. The sleeves and ruffles are finished with a drawn thread work hemstitch.
The leglettes are made of cotton lawn, and starched before wearing. The legs were constructed separately and overlapped at center back. The bulk of the gathers are shifted to the back of the waistband, similar to petticoats of the era.
Very nice, and I love the way your buttonholes are made.
I have been intrigued by the rational dress and it is so nice to see it recreated. Looks both pretty and comfy.
I really like the idea to make undergarments for a character. And they are so well made and thought-out! They fit you perfectly and look very nice and comfy.
All 3 have said exactly what l was thinking and feeling thank you ladies and thank you Angela for the beautiful work.
Love this corset! So original and yet simple in some ways. And the details on the sleeve are stunning♡
I love historical undergarments ad these are wonderful. I love all the thought that has gone into your design. well done:)
Love the button up corset! So original, and your buttonholes are beautifully done! So many gorgeous details in one outfit! Well done!
I really like how you interpreted a fantastical and historical character with such practical and solidly beautiful garments.
Absolutely lovely. That last photo is fabulous – Nan is definitely a lady not to be messed with – even when only in her under things!