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Malva of Galnicia
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
This outfit is based on Princess Malva of Galnicia (The Princess and the Captain; Anne-Laure Bondoux. French translated to English).
Whilst captive in a harem, she and all prisoners wear the “Sarimono”; a red garment which was “flung around themselves” to put on. The armed guards wear “shimmering robes and golden turbans”; reflected in the embroidery on her cap, and muted gold of the stays. The book has no set time period besides being *vaguely historical*, and the clothing descriptions could set it anywhere, from medieval to Victorian. I decided to make it kinda-fantasy 18th century, because I like the 18th century.
Sarimono, led to kimono, led to 18th century bedgown. More precisely; the Sarimono is based off the Garsault bedgown image (and marquis.de instructions), but made ankle length and with an additional 60” panel in the centre back, pleated into watteau pleats. There are no mention of any kind of structured undergarments in the book, but given my interpretation of the setting there had to be some. The stays are made using Simplicity/American Duchess 8579, slightly altered for fit, but I ignored the instructions completely and followed the instructions from the four stays livecalls instead.
This was my second time making stays – the first being the wearable mockup of this pattern.
The cap pattern is the 1740s pattern from the American Duchess Guide to Dressmaking, and the hood is part of a cape from Costume Close Up. The shift and petticoat are both simple rectangular construction.
Outline the construction…
Every single line of stitching (including 134 backstitched channels for the stays) was handsewn. Not for *historical accuracy* points, but because I simply don't own a sewing machine.
The Sarimono is midweight red linen, and linen thread. First time attempting watteau pleats, I used American Duchess and marquis.de resources. First time using linen thread. I used Malva's name as morse code in the seams. Also it has pocket (slits).
The stays are one layer heavyweight gold linen, two layers midweight bleached linen, lined with 22 scraps of white mystery fabric. Boned with 254 zip ties (2 per channel. Filing them alone took days). Bound with leather, sewn with linen. Eyelets made from gold silk buttonhole twist (using awl and five knitting needles).
Used Luca's livecalls for instructions.
The cap and hood were taken from gridded patterns. First time I tried sizing up from a book. Deceptively difficult for simple patterns. The cap is lightweight white linen, sewn with leftover gold silk from the stays. I did not have suitable lace, and could not procure any, so I handmade basic broderie anglaise to border the cap (eyelets and blanket hole stitched around scallops).
Used magic rolled hem and whipped gathers for the first time.
The red Sarimono linen used for the hood was too thin, leading to difficulties when trying to fan pleat it.
The shift is made from a cotton-linen blend using Sharon Burnston's tutorial. The petticoat is made from two pleated rectangles of midweight bleached linen.
Wow this is amazing!! Good job
Them dresses are so pretty <3
Beautiful! Your hand stitching is amazing, what a talent!
Genuinely, you blow me away with everything you do, Amelia!
Beautiful concept and execution! You are so creative!
Great job! I love seeing your work, your talent never ceases to amaze me.
Amazing – love the story too x
Wow. This outfit has wonderful interpretation, execution, and fit. A trifecta!
I want a gown like that in my wardrobe. 🙂
I don’t own a machine, either and I love making things and handsewing. Look at those stays! I especially like the cap and hood.
I am truly in love with this gown. I also love the cap. Thank you for sharing!
This turned out lovely. I love how the stitching on the cap and stays echo the colors worn by the other characters as well.
I love this! It’s really very well done! The stays are really awesome! Thank you!