FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Jean Valjean coat
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
Entry inspired by Jean Valjean from Les Misérables by Victor Hugo. I chose to make Jean Valjean’s yellow coat from the section of Les Misérables that takes place in 1823 when he takes Cosette from the Thenardiers after Fantine dies. It is described in the book as “a coarse coat, worn perfectly threadbare, of an ochre yellow, a color that was not in the least eccentric at that epoch." Additionally, the woman who Jean Valjean rents the house that he and Cosette live in at this point in the story from “noticed that there were all sorts of things in the pockets. Not only the needles, thread, and scissors which she had seen, but a big pocket-book, a very large knife, and—a suspicious circumstance—several wigs of various colors. Each pocket of this coat had the air of being in a manner provided against unexpected accidents.”
Because of this description, I chose to make the coat yellow, include a lot of pockets, and primarily base it on coats from the period when it appears in the book. The part of the book where he wears this coat begins in 1823, so I researched early 19th century coat construction and looked at museum photos of coats from the period.
Outline the construction…
In addition to museum photo references, I referred to the two-part sleeve pattern drafting instructions from Clarence Poulin’s Tailoring Suits The Professional Way (p50-53) and the frock coat pattern layout (Diagram XL, p. 126-127) from Norah Waugh’s The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 (p111–56). Historically this would have been wool, but I chose to use a linen/rayon blend for the outer layer and a cotton flannel for the lining because of budgeting and sourcing. I also included gussets in the armpits to increase the range of movement because the flannel restricts it. I could not figure out how to draft the cape piece on paper so I draped a piece of scrap fabric on myself to get the shape right. I hand-sewed the pockets, hems, buttonholes, and buttons, and machine-sewed the rest of the seams. For the machine-sewn seams, I sewed them with a straight seam first, and then sewed the seam allowances to the fabric. There are eight pockets attached to the lining, two on the outside in the waist seam, and one in the left cuff. I used shank buttons that I covered with some of the outer fabric, except for the buttons on the cuff pocket because they are not visible from the outside.
Absolutely my favourite piece that was entered. Love your work and the ochre cloth. You should be very proud of your work.
Thank you so much! It’s the most complicated thing I’ve ever made so I’m really happy with how it turned out!
Such a brilliant idea, this coat-of-many-pockets! So much lovely detail as well, especially all the buttons and the ‘capelet’ (sorry, I don’t know the technical term) in the back. Very well done!
Thank you!! 💚
i love this so much! the pockets are super cool, especially the cuff pocket. the cape gives it a special something too. job well done ♡
Thanls so much!! 💚
The shape is great! And that color♡♡
Thank you 💚💚
Oh, I love this! Great representation of the book character!
Thank you so much!!
Who wouldn’t want to have a coat with that many pockets? It’s such a great idea, and made with the character in mind, and I just love that golden yellow colour! Great work!
Thank you so much!! The pockets were my favorite part of the design 💚
I am fascinated by the list of items in the pockets, there can never be too many. Love that you choose a strong color. Well Done!
Thank you so much!! The pockets were my favorite part of the design 💚
Pockets 😍😍😍😍 Perfect choice of fabric 🙂