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Elstrid

stitch-1

SUBMITTED BY:

Anna Olson

LINKS:

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Other Credits

Photographer: Jeremy Olson; Model: Anna Olson

Outline the story …

This Carolingian-inspired undergown and overgown are based on one of Elstrid's outfits in Margaret Carver Leighton's historical novel, "Journey for a Princess," which is based on the real-life Aelfthryth of Flanders (c. 877-929). It was a favourite book when I was a pre-teen. Elstrid, youngest daughter of King Alfred the Great, feels awkward and plain next to her older siblings. Her time to shine arrives when she must greet newly allied visitors as the oldest unmarried daughter of the household. Her aunt searches through her own wardrobe to lend something to Elstrid: “Rich, many colored Eastern silks, damasks and tissues shot with threads of silver and of gold—she inspected each briefly but laid them all aside until she came to one of a soft, deep, violet-blue. ‘This is what she should wear... [and] I think this white damask will do very well [for the undergown],’ Gunhild said, lifting out a length of lustrous, woven silk....At last, newly bathed, scented with her aunt’s fragrant lotions, clothed in the long, close-fitting gown of silvery-white damask and the violet tunic, Elstrid stood waiting for her summons to the king’s hall. Her hair had been brushed until it shone like pale golden silk and the plaits were interwoven with strings of tiny seed pearls. A slim coronet of larger pearls bound her brows” (p. 47-48). The violet tunic was a gift to the aunt from a Carolingian princess, so I took my inspiration from both Anglo-Saxon and Carolingian styles of the period.

Outline the construction…

Given budget and current shipping limitations, I sourced the white damask for the undergown from a thrifted tablecloth. The purple tunic is a viscose-linen blend called "silky noil," and was purchased from a local fabric store. I had hoped to find jacquard ribbon to use for trim, but was unsuccessful finding any that could be shipped in time, so chose to use a thrifted Indian jacquard tablecloth for the trim and the belt on the tunic, as the look was similar to what I wanted. The pearl circlet and hair bead strings were also thrifted and altered as necessary.

The basic structure of both gowns are based on commonly used styles for that area and period, with the gowns constructed of rectangles with triangle gores, square gussets in the armpit, and long sleeves. The sizes of the shapes were determined by my measurements. The purple tunic had slighter wider sleeves than the undergown, to allow a better fit over the underlayer. I did find my hem for the purple tunic a challenge, as the fabric stretched quite a bit after hemming and required adjusting later, even though I had hung the gown up on my dress form for a couple days before hemming it, but it did teach me that I will need to be extra-careful about grainline and hanging the garment before hemming the next time I use a similar fabric.

COMMENTS

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4 Comments

  1. Avatar Susanna Antonsson on March 13, 2021 at 8:12 am

    Clever thrifting! The fabrics and trim go so well together.

  2. Avatar Leora Wambach on March 15, 2021 at 4:34 am

    That front/accent panel is sooo pretty! You did such a great job, and this looks so comfortable and elegant. Well done!

  3. Avatar Manon L'Hostis on March 15, 2021 at 3:20 pm

    Love the details! And those colors♡♡♡

  4. Avatar Laura Wemyss on March 27, 2021 at 12:31 pm

    A very well thought out interpretation of the book. A perfectly suited garment for the occasion! Great colour choices.

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