FOUNDATIONS REVEALED COMPETITION ENTRY
Countess Olenska
(click images to to enlarge)
Outline the story …
I chose Ellen Olenska, from Edith Wharton's The Age of Innocence as my inspiration for my entry. I love the costumes in the movie adaptation of The Age of Innocence, and I have never made a bustle dress before. I discovered upon reading the first pages of the novel again that the setting is the early 1870’s. Based on my (limited) knowledge of historical fashion, I realized that the movie pushes the setting a little later. I thought it might be fun to make a dress that is more suited to the early bustle era. Ellen wears a red dress when Archer urges her to stay with her husband - thus crushing her dreams of being with the man she truly loves. I love red, so I decided to stick with that. I think that scene is a pivotal moment in the novel, setting off a chain of events ensuring the two lovers never get to be together.
Outline the construction…
I started by making a chemise, bustle, and petticoat. I used a corset I made about a year ago for another project. I purchased red polyester taffeta in two different shades for the dress. I can’t find the pattern I used for either the corset or the petticoat, but for the rest I used Truly Victorian patterns: TV 108, TV 404, and TV 216. I had a bit of a rough time with fittings because I was in a leg cast for half of January, but I made it work. I made 4 mock-ups of the bodice, using the last as the lining. Because of the pandemic (and my foot surgery), I ended up not being able to purchase any additional fabric or trimmings as I had initially intended. Luckily, I found some lace in my stash, and I had enough of the dark red to make some trim. Unfortunately, I ran out of time before I could really go to town on the dress trimmings, 1870’s-style. I think I will add buttons to the bodice, and a large ruffle at the edge of the train. But I am pretty happy with it as is. I serged most of the seam allowances for finishing, and did most of the sewing by machine.
Your costume is absolutely stunning (we both decided to dress our heroines in red!). Edith Wharton’s books are so complex and fascinating too – I enjoyed reading your thoughts on how to interpret Ellen Olenska. Love all the trimmings on your dress.
Thank you so much! I can never turn down a red dress. 🙂 I’ve never made my own trimmings before – I have so many ideas for next time!
Just stunning, I love that you chose the red. I really enjoyed reading your process as someone with very limited knowledge on historical dress, I’m in awe!
Red is one of my favorites. I’m still learning as well – we all have to start somewhere! Thanks for your kind words!
Great job. You look great.
Thank you so much!
Love the ruffles and the skirt draping❤
Thank you so much! That was one of the areas I really struggled with, so I am very glad it looks ok. 🙂
You did magnificent job with the time you had. Congratulations! I love it!
Thank you so much! I plan to start much earlier next year!
Love the use of the fabric from the coat for the pleated trim on the skirt! Really brings it all together! Stunning dress and coat!
What an absolutely gorgeous gown. I love the whole package! Thank you so much!